Travelling in India is always an adventure. So much traffic – buses, trucks, cars, tuk tuks and scooters all rushing everywhere like a crazy dance. It takes awhile to acclimatise and realise that as long as we take a calculated risk when crossing the road we won’t be run over. And then there are the trains. The trains are complicated; it’s quite a quest to buy a ticket and navigate the system. First class, second class, third class, then all the sub classes. Buying a ticket is an epic mission. The stations are thronged with people rushing about, people sleeping on the platforms, boxes, baggage and mosquitos.
We took a ‘first class’ sleeper from Kochi in Kerala to Mangalore in Karnataka. It was far from the Orient Express, a four berth compartment with benches that are covered with padded plastic, but the epitome of comfort compared to third class where everyone is rammed in and, instead of windows, there are bars. We had curtains! The train chuntered its way through the night, stopping at various stations. Lots of people movement. A porter came by with chai and a breakfast of idli and dal in the morning. Idli are a steamed cake made with a batter of fermented rice and lentils, they are like fluffy white flying saucers which you dunk in the dal, very healthy and protein packed – also dead cheap. They are available everywhere for breakfast, food for the masses.
Mangalore is a big city with lots of temples, an enormous port and wild sea. The beach is long and sandy. Only the men swim, the woman wade into the sea with all their clothes on and the lifeguards keep everyone in check rushing around with batons shouting at people to get back before the sea swallows them up. Snack shacks line the top of the beach selling fruits, fried snacks like pakoras, samosa, dal vada and charumuri. Charumuri is something like a Thai som tam, absolutely delicious. It’s made with green mango, carrot, peanuts, tomato and puffed rice, all vigorously bashed together in a bowl together with chilli, spices and lime juice. It has become my new addiction.
We didn’t encounter any other Westerners in the entire time that we were in Mangalore. In fact we were quite a novelty and were asked to pose for several selfies with curious Mangaloreans.
We have now moved further North and are in the very south of Goa. It’s more relaxed here, the sea is hospitable and warm and the sand is so hot it cooks the soles of our feet like chapatis. We arrived here yesterday and the first thing that happened was we bumped into a couple of people from West Cork. It sure is a small world sometimes!
Below is the recipe for charumuri. I quizzed the man who was making it and wrote down the recipe. I procured the charumuri masala in the market but I think it might be available in the Asian store in Spiller’s Lane or in the city but, if not, I think chaat masala would make a good substitute. It’s well worth a try.
Charumuri
Ingredients:
• 1 carrot, peeled and grated
• 1/2 green mango peeled and grated
• A handful roasted peanuts
• 1 ripe tomato, diced small
• 1 shallot or small red onion , finely chopped
• a handful fresh coriander, chopped
• 1/4 tsp salt
• 1/2 tsp chilli powder or to taste
• 1 tsp charumuri masala or chaat masala
• 2tbs coconut oil, melted or other neutral oil
• 2tbs lime juice
• 1 heaped cup unsweetened puffed rice
Method:
Put the carrots, mango, tomato, peanuts, onion and coriander into a sturdy bowl or saucepan and bash vigorously together. Use a pestle or the end of a rolling pin to do this. Sprinkle over the chilli, masala, oil, lime juice and salt then bash once more. Finally stir through the puffed rice and serve.
You might want to moderate the chilli if you don’t like heat!
I will return home in February and the cooking classes will resume. There are still a few places free on the Mexican class and the Spring recipe class. Please contact me if you are interested, meanwhile…
Sunny greetings
Karen
Lettercollum Kitchen Project
www.lettercollum.ie
karen@lettercollum.ie
