This month’s recipe comes from India, where we escaped for the month of January. India is huge, one of those countries whose size exceeds expectations – it never looks that big on a map. We have worked our way up from Kerala in the very south, which is lush and green, hot with occasional tropical rainfall – ie bombastic downpours. It’s kind of obvious that it rains, as nowhere is that green without reason.
We ventured on to Goa in search of sandy beaches and sea that is hospitable enough to swim in, which it mostly is, but with random rough days thrown in when the waves tip you on your head and drag your togs off. It’s like a winter ‘Costa del Sol’ destination with beautiful sunshine and very tourist-friendly, although without the high rise apartments. You can go as fancy or as cheap as you wish – it’s all there. We spent a week walking the beaches and meeting interesting people before adventure beckoned and we headed up to Amhedebad in Gujarat. This location was chosen mainly because we would be heading north and there were very cheap flights. We were also very curious. One Indian friend asked us where were we going next and when we said Ahmedabad she said: ‘Why would you go there?’ We soon found out why she was so horrified.
Ahmedabad is a city of more than five million people – we really should do more homework! It is huge – the population of Ireland all jammed into one city. What a crazy place! So many people, so busy, so noisy – about one million people honking the horns on their tuk tuks (motorised rickshaws), scooters, buses, bicycles and, to top it all, low-flying aircraft passing overhead every five to 10 minutes. The racket is unbelievable and there is so much pollution that the town is observed through a low-lying fug. We stayed in the old part of town in a functional hotel – except the window didn’t open – that served very interesting and tasty Indian breakfasts. We wandered out to explore this boiling mass of humanity; getting around was full-on with broken footpaths and having to dodge around street vendors and cows amidst the traffic. It was even more hazardous at night when some of the footpaths turn into dormitories.
Ahmedabad is also where Mahatma Gandhi’s ashram is located; this austere compound where Gandhi lived was a wonderful respite from all the chaos, and we spent a morning wandering around and learning about this great peacemaker. There were pictures of various famous dignitaries that had visited, including our very own Mary Robinson.
The food was great, especially the street-food, which was super tasty and super cheap, the average pice being around 50 cents a dish. For sure you could live very cheaply there but saying that, after two days we ran out of there, our sensory functions on overload.
We took the overnight sleeper bus to Jaisalmer. As the distances are so great in India, planes are used like buses, and buses can be used as hotels-on-wheels, although they are not suitable if you have weak bladder. The buses are surprisingly comfortable – you get a curtained off mattress with an overhead light and air-con and, as long as you can filter out the racket – and didn’t drink too much before you got on it – it’s possible to get a reasonable night’s sleep. We awoke to a totally different landscape, flat and shrubby with sandstone buildings. The bus arrived to the dusty bus station on the outskirts of town and we were collected by tuk tuk and transported to our new abode – an ornate sandstone haveli with numerous floors and areas with cushions to enjoy the terraces – bliss, and all for €23 a night.
Jaisalmer, known as the golden city, is dominated by a huge sandstone fort with ninety nine buttresses and a population of around 3000 people living inside. It’s magnificent in a rather crumbling way and bustling with activity. We are staying outside of the fort close by the fruit and vegetable market. There are still plenty of scooters, some tuk tuks and a large population of cows that wander the streets hoovering up any food scraps to be found.
Jaisalmer is located in the middle of the Thur desert and was formerly a centre for camel based trading, these days the camels are mostly used to show tourists the desert, which we are working up to do.
Here’s a recipe for a Masala Fish Fry, which I was given whilst we were in Goa where there’s an abundance of fresh seafood. It’s very simple to make and would perk up any fish dish. In India it’s usual to cook whole fish, head, spine and all but this could be used for filets of fish which means there aren’t any bone issues. Best for thicker fillets though as the skin needs to be slashed to marinate the flesh before frying. The recipe is suitable for most fish.
To make the ginger/garlic paste it’s probably easiest to peel the garlic and ginger then finely grate into a small bowl.
Methi is available in the Asian shop in Spillers Lane, Clonakilty.
Masala Fish Fry
Ingredients:
• 150-200g fish per person
• 2tbs Greek yoghurt
• 1tbs vegetable oil plus extra for frying
• 1-2tsp mild Kashmiri chilli powder
• 1tbs garlic/ginger paste
• 1tsp ground cumin
• 2tsp ground coriander
• 1/2 tsp turmeric
• 1/2 tsp salt
• 1tsp garam masala
• 2tsp methi – fenugreek leaf
• 1tbs lemon juice
Put all of the above ingredients into a bowl except for the fish.
Whisk everything together to make a smooth paste.
Carefully slash the fish fillets across the skin side several times, without cutting through the fish.
Rub the marinade over both sides of the fish. massaging into the slits. Leave to sit for 5-10 minutes. Not longer or the marinade will start cooking the fish.
Heat a heavy pan over a medium high heat, then add enough oil to just cover the bottom. Take the fish from the marinade then gently slip it into the pan, skin side down. Reduce the heat to medium then cook for three minutes, until the skin begins to crust. Don;’t poke it out about. Carefully turn the fish and cook for another 2-3 minutes on the other side. The cooking time will depend on the size of your fish, it may need a little longer if the fillets are very fat.
Enjoy, sunny greetings and see you in February. There are a couple of places free on the Curry class if anyone is interested.
Karen
Lettercollum, Timoleague
www.lettercollum.ie
karen@lerttercollum.ie