When I held dog obedience classes, I always started with getting dogs to approach each other in a safe manner. The first rule of law is never to imagine that any two dogs will be best buddies initially, if at all. I asked owners and their dogs to form a circle. Then each owner slowly and separately walked an inner circle stopping in front of each dog but a short distance from him. If the dog was relaxed at doing this, I suggested that he move slightly closer to the one opposite him. And both owners needed to stay alert to any reactions. It was amazing to see how clearly each dog communicated his feelings. Some started jumping up wanting to make contact and play. Others backed away, growled or generally showed misgivings at being brought closer into the other dog’s personal space. If the reactions were in any way hostile or could be misinterpreted, the owner and dog in the inner circle took a step back and kept doing so until both dogs resumed a relaxed demeanour. That meant that either or both dogs no longer felt intimidated by a perceived invasion of his personal space.

I have taught this passive interaction for home visits too using my own dog, Saffron. She would sit in the car at a fully open window while the dog with ‘meeting and greeting’ issues slowly advanced literally one step at a time. He’d be continually rewarded when relaxed and, if bothered at approaching the car and Saffron, he would be withdrawn to a position that was comfortable before being asked to resume his approach.

This technique instils trust between owner and dog. The dog learns his owner will always listen to him and take action to reduce any stress that could exacerbate any given situation. Once your dog knows you’re listening, he begins to reciprocate, listening to you at all times. But once stress sets in, there’s no longer a meeting of minds.

There are a few obvious pointers to make introductions a less stressful event. You need to know your dog and to understand what motivates him. Many dogs are territorial. Therefore, to present another dog, especially on home ground without due care, is like lighting a tinder box. Once lit, it’s very hard to put out.

Any dog, no matter his character, needs to be introduced on neutral ground but especially if you are trying to bring a new dog into your home. If your dog is a dominant type, introducing another dog with the same characteristic will be a disaster. Choosing a dog of the opposite sex is a good place to start.

Both dogs arrive at a neutral venue. You need to be calm around your own dog, studiously ignoring the newcomer’s arrival. A brisk walk together with both dogs on the outside and the two of you in the middle is advised. Don’t allow any advance into the other’s personal space. Keep observing the signals, and you’ll know if the dogs begin to relax when they start sniffing, taking stock of their surroundings, or pee and poop without feeling vulnerable at the other’s proximity.

If you sit down, ensure that you keep the distance. Watch carefully. Does one dog turn away completely from the other? Or does one keep eyeing the other suspiciously? Can they relax enough to lie down and close their eyes? Or does every slight movement produce an over-alert reaction from the other dog?

You’ll need to repeat the walk a few times to allow them to be comfortable in the other’s company. Even if your dog isn’t confrontational or territorial, you must still be careful. Any adverse reaction will have a negative effect on your dog for future introductions.

Never allow dogs to sniff each other for too long. Dogs get the full picture of each other with just a couple of sniffs. Staying close can produce an adverse reaction. Stand back and allow the dogs to process the information. Then see if THEY want to pursue the possibility of friendship. If not, respect their wishes.

Some dogs dislike hyperactive ones. Having had Boxers all my life and knowing their excitability, I fully understand this. And I will introduce Saffron to other dogs very carefully for her sake. However, I also know that she’s friendly. She will offer play bows to some dogs if they reciprocate. But, more importantly, she will lie down to others, giving a firm signal that she’s no threat.

However, it’s up to us owners to protect our own pets. So while I’m watching Saffron, I’m concentrating fully on the other dog. If I read a threat, I always call Saffron in close to me and stand quietly beside her in case she needs help. That way we work as a team and the mutual trust remains in place.

If you’ve been following Brian Colgan and Jordan Veloso’s house-building journey (@ouririshbarn) on Instagram, you’ll know that the charismatic couple have just broken ground on their dream home in West Cork. After making the move from London, the couple are managing the self-build themselves through direct labour – a 2,000-square-foot timber frame house on a 0.6-acre site near Brian’s homeplace in Courtmacsherry. They chat to Mary O’Brien about the project.

Courtmacsherry native Brian, a project manager, and Jordan, an actor-turned-curriculum lead for a UK performing arts organisation, from Guernsey, met in London almost eight years ago. The couple bought their first home together in 2022 – a new-build terrace in a 2,000-home estate between Milton Keynes and London, commutable for their jobs in London. While it offered the opportunity to step onto the property ladder, the couple soon realised that they craved a quieter, more rural lifestyle such as that offered by Guernsey or West Cork. Guernsey’s property market is expensive and offered limited opportunities to build, whereas Brian had family land available in West Cork, so the decision ultimately became an easy one. After years of travelling back and forth to visit family they were also attracted by the welcoming community in West Cork. “We came over one Christmas and literally sat filling out the planning form.” shares Jordan.

With Brian’s background in construction and Jordan’s love for design, there was never any question that they would do anything other than manage the project themselves.

After sourcing free pre-fabricated home plans online and studying Cork County Council’s rural planning guide intensively – “it was bedtime reading” – the first step was the pre-planning consultation.

Their homework and thorough preparation paid off, as they received no objections to their ridge height, cladding choice, or contemporary design.

“The main feedback we got from pre-planning was that our gable was too wide so we created a design that features two distinct blocks connected by a hallway with views out towards the Old Head of Kinsale,” shares Brian. A single-storey living wing features a vaulted kitchen and dining area alongside a cosy living room with a lowered ceiling, while the two-storey bedroom wing has three bedrooms, including the master suite. The exterior will be clad in black corrugated iron, leaning into what they describe as a “vernacular, rural, agricultural feel” – like the barn building of the family homeplace.

The exterior is deliberately “masculine and sheltered” (the site is exposed), while the interior aims to have the feel of an Irish/Guernsey cottage. “It will be full of character, fun and colour,” adds Jordan.

Brian and Jordan want a practical, relaxed home suited to life in the countryside incorporating secondhand finds and natural materials. “We want a comfortable and genuinely liveable space, especially after a dog walk or sea swim,” says Jordan.

The house has a Kore foundation – an insulated system built up from ground level rather than excavated – which suits the rocky site. The timber frame is by Ecotech Homes from Midleton. There is precision required in such a build: “You need to know details like where you want your toilet waste to go before it even gets manufactured,” says Brian.

Alu-clad triple-glazed windows have been ordered from Rationale (a Danish company based in Cork).

With the majority of the more difficult decisions now made – including polished concrete floors downstairs and pocket doors throughout – the couple are turning their attention to the finer design details and finishing touches. They’re aiming for an A-rated home with solar panels, underfloor heating, and a stove.

The couple have made a huge effort to keep spending close to home, using businesses, tradespeople and suppliers wherever possible, for example Rick’s Plant Hire and local plumbers and electricians. “We got multiple quotes for everything,” shares Brian.

Details still under discussion include if they should go with surface-mounted light switches in galvanised trunking and heat recovery ventilation versus natural ventilation.

A significant hurdle has been Irish banks’ stage-payment mortgage system, which clashes with timber frame companies requiring a significant amount of money upfront before the frame arrives on site. 

After a frustrating year-and-a-half with a broker who ultimately couldn’t help, they finally secured financing through EBS. “We had exceptional support from EBS mortgage advisor Gavin Kiely,” they add.

Brian and Jordan’s Instagram page (@ouririshbarn) has now grown to over 25,000 followers with the response overwhelmingly positive. People have been asking questions on everything from foundations to ESB pole relocation to material choices. “I think people are just are admiring our journey and wishing us well,” says Jordan.

The couple spent their first summer living in a caravan in Kilbrittain and are now renting in Barryroe, with the aim of moving into their new home in Courtmacsherry by April or May next year. Given the meticulous planning that has gone into the project so far, it’s an ambition that no doubt will be realised.

Brian and Jordan’s advice for others planning a self-build project

• Use pre-planning: “Before we invested any money, all we really wanted to know from pre-planning was, is it worth investing money in to get actual plans? Are we allowed to build here?”

• Study the rural planning guide: Understand what planners want before you design.

• Get multiple quotes: Ask suppliers if they’re willing to quote before spending too much time putting all the information together.

• Think ahead: Looking into requirements early. “Our ESB pole relocation took time to arrange.”

• Be prepared for cash flow challenges: Timber frame requires significant upfront capital.

• Make decisions early: Changes are more difficult to make later with a timber frame than with a traditional build, so things like services, plumbing, electrics and layouts need early consideration.

• Consider your site: Understand your ground conditions. “Our Kore foundation worked because of rock.”

While relocating her business to the busy town of Kinsale feels like a step in the right direction for Emily Connell and her popular interiors and lifestyle store, Chalk & Easel, it also marks a bittersweet chapter in this local success story writes Mary O’Brien.

For the past ten years – until this past summer – Chalk & Easel has been a landmark in the pretty little village of Ballinspittle, in a building that was not only a place of business for the shop owner, but is where she, her husband Matthew, son Elliott and shop dog Sam have called home. While the business has moved further away, with the near completion of their new build house just outside the village, the Connell family are looking forward to continuing this part of their story within the tight-knit community of Ballinspittle.

While some may believe that life does not get better by chance, but by change, this new beginning for Chalk & Easel has surely been written by both.

As so often happens in West Cork – after a year of uncertainty regarding the future of the business – fortunately the possibility of a suitable premises in Kinsale eventually arose through word of mouth. The protected heritage building at Market Place, for many years known as Patsy’s Corner, was being carefully renovated and would take some time – more time than anticipated – but in the end it was worth the more than two year wait.

The exterior has now been tastefully painted in a soft ochre yellow, chosen by Emily to complement the meticulously-preserved character of the building and the inviting storefront can’t help but encourage passersby to pause and discover the carefully curated contents within.

With Emily’s eye for beautiful yet functional items and her commitment to sustainability wherever possible – “Things that make life a bit better without making the planet worse,” she explains – this independent shop inspires beauty in the everyday.

While Chalk & Easel started out as interiors, over the years it has evolved into a lifestyle store. “Customers would ask me ‘Would you ever stock this or that?’ and so it happened,” explains Emily. Chalk & Easel now stocks reading glasses, clothing, perfumes and other lifestyle items alongside interiors. Each item is carefully researched and sourced with quality and durability prioritised over cheaper alternatives. “They’re mostly products I would buy for myself,” shares Emily.

While the shop floor is far from large, Emily has created an uncluttered and attractive display that is impactful rather than overwhelming. 

From dustpan and brush sets made using natural materials to toilet roll holders that double as a basket, window bird feeders from Born in Sweden to Ocean tide clocks made in France, stylish bags from Uashmama made from washable paper in Italy to the ever-popular La Bougie candles, diffusers and perfumes created locally in Kinsale and chic tableware by Côté Table in France, each item is presented with such care that it feels effortless. Yet the precision to the presentation suggests that it has all been executed with deliberate intention, reflecting Emily’s background in interior and structural design.

For the person in your life who appears to have everything, check out the Eva Solo designer bread dustpan-and-brush or go for something more fun like the KOOKOO AnimalHouse cuckoo clock, which allows you to choose between five different brightly-coloured animal figures. 

Chalk & Easel also stocks books that are a little bit different; the range of mindful titles from the London-based School of Life publishing company cover topics ranging from understanding emotions to dealing with conflict to managing stress and finding everyday pleasures.

The clothing in Chalk & Easel echoes the owner’s style – a collection of timeless pieces in natural materials (linens, cottons), to suit all shapes, sizes, and ages.

Scandinavian brand moshi moshi mind definitely deserves a mention for its non-seasonal multifunctional wardrobe, created for women with comfort, movement and softness in mind. Another beautiful ethical clothing brand stocked is Myrah Penaloza. Each piece is handmade by women in Bali who are all paid a fair wage.

The natural skincare range from Dublin Herbalists is also a personal favourite with Emily, who uses the products herself.

Some of the other Irish-made products include wooden chopping boards and jewellery, all by makers in West Cork.

Balancing a shop move with a house build has brought its fair share of challenges, but Emily’s passion for design has made both projects genuinely enjoyable. Five years on from purchasing the site, she and her family are finally close to moving in to their new home.

Like the shop, the house has been created with sustainability at its heart. It’s a Passivhaus requiring little to no active heating or cooling and, at 140 square metres, it’s modest by today’s standards, with a timber frame clad in cement board and corrugated metal. A KORE foundation system means the house weighs just a sixth of an average home, and it has been insulated using Ecocel, an eco-friendly product made from recycled newspapers by a Cork-based company. A veranda wraps around the house, designed to encourage inside-outside living.

Inside, Emily has planned the living space with minimal corners and open areas to allow ease of movement and relaxed gatherings. “I’ve positioned the dishwasher so it won’t get in the way when we’re cooking and lots of empty space, that kind of thing,” she explains.  The home will, of course, be furnished using many of the beautiful pieces Emily has sourced for the shop, including unusual lighting made from baskets woven in Ghana and a timeless favourite, linen cushions from Danish brand House Doctor

Her advice to anyone considering a self build? “Just do it, and trust the process.”

If you’re looking for inspiration for your own home, then do call in to this lovely independent store in Kinsale. It’s worth travelling for.

www.chalkandeasel.ie.

In this second instalment of her series on the nine principles of interior design, Mairead Collier explores two critical principles that govern how we perceive and move through a room: Focal Points and Rhythm.

When you understand the fundamental principles of interior design, you unlock the ability to transform any space from ordinary to extraordinary. Paired with practice, a bit of trial, and creative experimentation, this knowledge empowers you to curate a home that feels uniquely yours.

Every room needs a focal point.

A focal point is the star of the room, the striking feature or element that instantly grabs your attention and draws your eye inward upon entering. It can be a natural architectural feature like a breathtaking view through a floor-to-ceiling window or a classic stone fireplace. Alternatively, it can be a deliberate design choice, such as a large-scale piece of artwork, a bold upholstered headboard, or a dramatic accent wall.

The most common mistake in home interiors is a room with no clear anchor. Without one, furniture and decor end up competing with one another, every piece screaming for attention at once. The alternative is equally uninspired: a room where nothing stands out, leaving the space feeling flat, bland, and tedious.

Depending on its scale, a well-designed room can support more than one focal point. However, unless you are highly confident in your design abilities, it is best to start with a single, clear anchor to avoid visual overload.

 A successful focal point must capture immediate interest while remaining an integral part of the overall design scheme. It should invite you to look further without feeling disconnected from the rest of the room. If your room lacks a natural architectural feature, build one! Highlight a key piece of furniture, like a rich velvet sofa, or style an eye-catching media console or gallery wall.

If you struggle to identify what is working in your room, step back and take a few photos on your phone. Looking at a space through a lens strips away daily familiarity and reveals exactly where the eye lands first.Once your focal point is chosen, arrange your furniture to orient toward it. Frame it with clever lighting, such as picture lights, directional spotlights, or flanking sconces, to add impact and drama.

Once your focal point establishes where the eye should land; Rhythm dictates how the eye moves through the rest of the space. In interior design, rhythm is the art of creating patterns of repetition, progression, and contrast. It carries the viewer along a continuous, visual path that feels effortless and intuitive.

Without rhythm, a room feels like a collection of disconnected, individual objects. With it, every element feels intentionally linked, creating a subconscious sense of harmony and continuity that defines a professionally designed home.

At the heart of rhythm lies repetition, the deliberate, recurring use of a specific design element across a space. When an element is repeated, the human eye naturally connects the dots, creating a subtle visual track to follow.

You can establish repetition through various design layers:

 Repeating an accent hue, such as carrying a deep rust tone from a canvas painting to sofa cushions and a decorative vase across the room.

Echoing soft, organic curves through an arched mirror, a round coffee table, and spherical lighting fixtures.

Reappearing warm timber finishes across table legs, picture frames, and wall cladding, or repeating woven textures like rattan and linen.

While repetition is essential to establish rhythm, the key is balance. Overusing or over-repeating the exact same element is a common trap that leads to visual monotony.

If every single piece of furniture in a living room features the exact same oak finish, or if every cushion, curtain, and rug shares the identical pattern, the space loses its energy. Instead of feeling curated, it becomes flat, boring, and sterile, resembling a rigid, copy-and-paste furniture showroom rather than a lived-in home.

To create a dynamic rhythm that keeps a room engaging, repeat a material or colour, but vary its application, scale, or intensity. For example, pair a chunky bouclé armchair with a subtle woven linen cushion in a similar shade, or mix a dark walnut dining table with lighter oak framing details nearby.

Use contrasting elements to create ‘beats’ along your visual path. A sleek, smooth glass tabletop placed against a coarse, textured rug instantly breaks up monotony and adds an unexpected, modern edge. Lead the eye by altering an element’s scale, such as styling a collection of candlesticks or ceramic vases in graduating heights along a sideboard.By thoughtfully repeating elements while embracing subtle variation and contrast, you create a captivating rhythm that brings your home to life, guiding the eye seamlessly from one beautiful detail to the next.

Coming up in Part 3: We dive into contrast and harmony.

Mairead Collier creates refined, bespoke luxury homes for private clients across Ireland, London, and the USA, fully managed from concept to completion. For more visit maireadscollierinteriors.com

This month Natalie Webb is showing us how to make a jellyfish bookmark.

Materials: 

•  A small wooden spoon – can be purchased in craft shops but I got mine from a local cafe.

•  Paint – two colours of your choosing, I used purple and blue.

•  Small piece of card, I used pink.

•  Black marker pen

•  Two different colour wools – I used dark pink and light pink.

•  Glue.

Paint the “head” of the spoon on both sides with one of your colours and, once that has dried, paint on spots with your other colour. Leave to dry.

Cut out 12 strips of wool in different colours, approx 8cm long.

Glue on your wool about 3/4 of the way down the spoon head, so that it dangles down over the spoon handle.

Cut out two small rectangle shapes with a wavy edge on one side. Glue these on to the front and back of your spoon, to cover the top of your wool strips.

To finish off draw on the face of your jellyfish with your marker.

Now the best part.. find your favourite book and settle down for a good read!

I receive a regular online blog from a dog trainer. It’s a great way of giving me food for thought by reading other trainer’s topics or opinions. Even if I question her point of view, I feel that’s good because it makes me look at my own beliefs about dog training. Can I do better? Do I need to have a re-think?

So I was really interested when her blog came in entitled ‘Let Dogs be Dogs’. Her argument was that we bring dogs into our lives and then proceed to coach them out of all their innate canine traits. These include chewing, chasing, jumping up, digging, sniffing, stealing food. I could feel my hackles rising as I imagined all the difficulties that would occur if we allowed our dogs to do as they pleased without putting in any boundaries.

If you translate this into human terms, it would mean that we would allow our children to be ‘free spirits’, able to do as they pleased on a whim with no moral code or behavioural responsibility towards others.

Many years ago, I was called out to a man who had a number of Cocker Spaniels. All of them, bar one, were reasonably well-behaved. But, that particular one was becoming a liability in that she was aggressive to other dogs and people. She was beginning to even be confrontational towards her owner. She looked rather unhappy too. I began to talk to him about training and boundaries and watched as the man’s eyes glazed over. His counter-argument was that dogs should be allowed to do as they pleased. Shortly after this conversation, I made my excuses to him.

After all, our views were so far apart that there was no point in continuing it. But, I knew she was an accident waiting to happen.

And sure enough, about a week later, he called me again in a bit of a panic.

The dog had attacked one of the other dogs in a determined fashion. I called out again and we had another long chat. This time, he was listening. I don’t recall this with any sense of satisfaction. It was just sad that it had taken a disaster for him to be open to the fact that there might be another way.

As she had attacked one of his other dogs, it was highly unlikely that there would be a perfect solution and they’d all live happily ever after. Fortunately, he was able to give her away to someone who could look after her and was experienced in that breed. And the owner went on to do a bit of training with the other dogs too.

But back to the blog and dogs being allowed to be dogs. As you read this, you will probably believe that I’d be totally against this premise. That’s not true. However, I do believe that first of all, it’s important to teach your dog to live happily with you and to be able to be relaxed and well-behaved in company. A lack of training leaves you at odds with your dog if he doesn’t know about your ‘House Rules’. And, from experience, I see dogs without training who keep pushing boundaries looking for them and to understand what you expect of them.

I also believe that knowing what’s needed or expected allows your dog to develop its character. In other words, you allow him to make choices. He can choose to do as you ask or otherwise. The rewards for conforming to your way of life are

huge. He gets to be a trusted member of the family that you can take anywhere and any time. That fulfils the need to socialise and encounter all sorts of different people, dogs and situations.

However, I’m fully in agreement that there are times when dogs just have to be dogs. Therefore, all my dogs have been allowed to have big, ‘growly’, play fights with me. If anyone heard me ‘growling’ with them at those times, they would have me committed! But, the important point to mention is that I can end the game at any time before it gets out of control.

At other times, I’ve always encouraged all my dogs to just run free for as long as they want – the effort flapping their ears, jumping in and out of long grass or performing zoomies; sniffing for as long as they want and following scents; the chance to run and play with other dogs until they drop! Develop their scenting potential by affording them opportunities to find treats you’ve dropped along the path or find hidden toys. That special sigh of satisfaction when they return and flop down in perfect relaxation is something special and to be appreciated! You know you’ve given them exactly what they want. But, it’s all done within certain boundaries. In my opinion, that’s allowing a dog to be truly a dog.

In the first of a six-part series on the nine principles of interior design, Mairead Collier looks at balance, and scale and proportion.

Have you ever walked into a room and felt completely at ease, without knowing why? Or stood in a beautifully furnished space that somehow felt cold and disconnected? The difference, almost always, comes down to design principles.

These are not rigid rules. They are guidelines that professional interior designers use to create spaces that feel intentional, balanced, and genuinely lovely to be in. And the good news is that you do not need a design degree to understand them. Once you know what to look for, you will start seeing these principles everywhere, and applying them in your own home becomes much more instinctive.

Over the coming six months, I will break down each principle and expand on how to apply them in your home. For this first article I will discuss the first two principles; Balance, and Scale and Proportion.

Balance is one of the most fundamental principles of interior design. It refers to how visual weight is distributed across a room. A balanced room is one where its various elements have similar visual weight and aesthetic importance. When balance is right, a space feels stable and calm. The scale, colour and texture of all elements in the room will have an influence on balance. Each object within a room will carry a different visual weight. Large objects carry more visual weight than small objects. Bright and bold colours carry more weight than say pale or cool colours. Likewise, shiny objects versus dull or flat objects. The former has more visual weight than the latter. A busy pattern will carry more visual weight than a simple pattern. The goal is to balance all these elements within the room. When it is off, something nags, even if you cannot quite name it. There are three types of balance. Symmetrical balance is achieved when two identical items are placed on two opposite sides of an imaginary line. For example, two matching bedside tables, a pair of lamps flanking a fireplace. It is formal and reassuring. Asymmetrical balance uses objects of different sizes or types that carry equal visual weight, a tall floor lamp balanced by a low, wide credenza. It feels more relaxed and contemporary. Radial balance arranges elements around a central point, a round dining table with chairs, and a circular rug.In practice, most well-designed rooms use a combination of all three. The key is to step back and ask: does one side of this room feel heavier than the other? If so, something needs to shift. The easiest way to start is to place a focal point centrally, like a bed in a bedroom or a dining table and chairs in a dining room, and work out from this. When deciding where to place an item ask yourself a series of questions. What is the visual weight of the item? Where will it look best within the room? What will need to be placed around the item to give it balance?

Scale refers to how objects relate to the size of the room. Proportion is how objects relate to each other. Both matter enormously, and both are frequently the cause of rooms that feel off without anyone being able to say exactly why.The relationship between scale and proportion is in part a matter of function but also of aesthetics, perspective and how we use the space. An oversized sofa in a small room makes the space feel cramped and hard to move through. To counteract this, designers may often upholster the sofa in a neutral colour, then use a bolder colour on things such as cushions or throws. This stops the sofa from dominating the room but also introduces colour and interest. Tiny artwork hung on a large wall looks lost and apologetic. However this too can be rectified if it provides a subtle visual link to other items in the room through shape, colour or texture. The secret lies in being intentional about adding in an under-scale object and not randomly introducing it to a room. Similarly furniture that is too low for a high-ceilinged room can feel awkward and weightless. Getting scale and proportion right is not complicated. But it does require measuring, and resisting the temptation to buy something simply because you love it, without checking how it will actually relate to its surroundings.The golden ratio and the rule of thirds are both useful frameworks here. But honestly, the simplest test is to stand in the room, look at what you are considering, and ask: does it belong here? Does it feel right in relation to everything else? If you are still unsure or not confident then you could use chalk or painter’s tape and mark out the size of your furniture on the floor. Over-scaling is one of the tools designers use a lot and it is an extremely effective way of improving the overall ambience of a room. It also has the added bonus of requiring only one or two elements to make a big impact e.g. a double height headboard or an oversized antique mirror or pendant. 

Mastering balance, scale, and proportion is just the beginning of transforming a space into a thoughtful, harmonious home. Over the next five months, we will explore the remaining principles that bring rooms to life, giving you the tools to trust your own eye. Interior design is an ongoing conversation, and I would love to hear about your projects, whether you are refreshing a single room, planning a full home renovation, or embarking on a complete new build. If you have a tricky layout, a burning design question, or a topic you would like covered in an upcoming column, please get in touch at info@maireadcollierinteriors.com or connect with me online at www.maireadcollierinteriors.com.

Until next month, happy decorating!

by John Hosford

We have had some really hot weather, with record temperatures, and near-drought conditions have put a lot of pressure on many plants and lawns. With hose pipe bans in place, gardeners now need to consider both the storage and careful use of water.

Autumn and early winter are ideal times for planting trees, shrubs and bare-root fruit trees. Late spring and summer plantings may not have had enough time to establish before the onset of hot, dry weather. Hydrangeas, which are planted extensively throughout West Cork, have suffered particularly during the recent hot, dry spell.

Heavy mulching with bark mulch, composted stable manure or farmyard manure is well worthwhile for conserving moisture. Make sure any compost used is free of weeds. Mulching can be carried out in late winter or early spring, or immediately after planting. Roses and perennials can also be mulched in late winter or early spring with composted manure. If this is not available, Gee-up, made in Blarney, Co. Cork, is an excellent alternative.

Water can be stored from the winter rains in water butts or tanks, and gardeners should enquire locally about stockists. Carbery Plastics in Clonakilty manufacture water butts and accessories. Rainwater or grey water can be used when watering new plantings.

Fruit garden: Apples should be picked as they ripen. Earlier varieties such as ‘Beauty of Bath’ and ‘Discovery’ can be picked as soon as they are ripe. Test the fruit by gently clasping it; if it is ripe, it should detach easily without much pressure. Early varieties will not store for long and should be used within seven to ten days of picking.

Autumn-fruiting raspberries should also be picked, while recently planted strawberries need to be kept well watered. Ripening fruit should be protected from birds and wasps with well-secured netting. Gardeners should also be wary of wasps when collecting windfall fruit.

Prune off mildew-infected shoots on apples and pears. Finish pruning summer-fruiting raspberries by cutting out the fruited canes and tying in the new canes securely.

Container-grown peaches and nectarines can be planted in a sheltered spot. Prepare the soil by digging it over and incorporating plenty of well-composted farmyard manure or garden compost. Dig a hole large and deep enough to plant the tree at the same depth as it was in the container, making sure the point where it is grafted remains above ground level.

Greenhouse and under cover:
September is a good time to attend to greenhouse repairs and replace any broken panes of glass. Remove shading before October arrives and reduce watering during the month. Watering early in the day will help reduce fungal infection.

Ventilators should now be closed at night but opened during warm and mild days. Good air circulation will help reduce the risk of disease. Tender plants should be brought indoors in late September or early October, including pelargoniums, tender fuchsias, cannas and lantanas.

Continue picking tomatoes, cucumbers, courgettes, peppers and aubergines as they ripen. Keep the greenhouse well ventilated on warm days and continue feeding with a liquid seaweed-based fertiliser. Avoid creating damp conditions in the evening.

Lawns: September is a good time to sow grass seed or lay turf, with sowing completed by the end of the month while there is still warmth in the soil. Established lawns can be fed with an autumn lawn feed now.

Thatch, the layer of dead grass and other debris that builds up on a lawn, should be removed. Thatch can cause problems with surface drainage and encourage moss and other weeds to colonise the lawn. On a small lawn, it can be pulled out with a spring-tined rake. For a larger lawn, it is worth considering hiring a powered scarifier from a local tool hire company. The lawn will look a mess immediately after scarifying, but it will do it the world of good and it will soon recover.

After removing the thatch, the next job is aeration. This can be done by pushing a fork 15cm into the ground at 15-18cm intervals. A machine can be hired for larger lawns. Worn patches should be reseeded and broad-leaved weeds dealt with.

Bulbs: Spring-flowering bulbs will now be available in garden centres and shops. Bulbs can also be planted or potted up now for Christmas flowering. Hyacinths, early narcissi such as Paperwhite and Grand Soleil d’Or, and freesias are suitable choices.

Dwarf bulbs are ideal for providing early colour in a cool greenhouse or conservatory, or outdoors. Dwarf iris, crocus, scilla, dwarf tulips, dwarf narcissi, tulips and Anemone blanda can all be grown in pots, provided there is good drainage.

Outdoor bulbs for spring flowering can now be planted, although tulips are usually planted in November. Tall varieties of tulips and narcissi can be underplanted with pansies, violas, polyanthus, dwarf wallflowers or forget-me-nots. Combinations could include tall red tulips with blue forget-me-nots, tall yellow trumpet daffodils with blue pansies, or Narcissi Tete a Tete with blue crocus and blue or purple aubretia trailing at the edges or front of a container.

When buying bulbs, check that they are firm, sound and free of mould or fungal infection. Check the heights and colours on the packet and choose lower varieties if you are gardening in an exposed place. It is also worth choosing a selection of varieties that will provide a succession of colour from December to May. Snowdrops will be among the first to flower, with some early varieties flowering even before Christmas. These can be followed by early narcissi such as January Gold, dwarf iris, dwarf tulips, hyacinths, late narcissi and tulips, followed by Dutch iris.

Vegetable garden: In the vegetable garden, harvest potatoes and control slugs on potatoes remaining in the ground. Runner beans, French beans and peas should be picked, while brassicas need protection from caterpillars. These should be dealt with immediately as they can cause considerable damage in a very short period.

Pumpkins, squashes and vegetable marrows should be harvested and brought indoors to a cool, dry and frost-free place. Handle the fruit carefully to avoid damage or blemishes, which will shorten its storage life. Until harvesting at the end of the month, protect the fruit by placing a slab or slate underneath each one to keep it clean.

Amid the current housing crisis, there is a well-documented lack of housing supply, so an increasing number of people are looking at older houses with a view to refurbishing. On the plus side, buying a house that requires renovation can be an effective way to create a home tailored to your needs. It can also provide access to locations or property types that might otherwise be unaffordable. However, renovation projects carry financial, legal and construction risks that must be investigated before contracts are signed. The above risks can also impact your mortgage application. 

The most important rule is simple: assess the purchase and renovation as one project. A low asking price does not necessarily represent good value once building costs, professional fees, energy upgrades and unexpected problems are included. If you feel that this is a viable option for you, though, then we would advise you consider the following.

Budget

Before viewing properties, buyers should calculate what they can afford to spend on both the purchase and the works. Mortgage approval in principle provides a useful starting point, but it does not guarantee that a lender will finance a particular property. As with self builds, there are only three lenders that will look at projects like these: AIB Group (AIB, EBS, Haven), Bank of Ireland, and PTSB. Once you know your borrowing power, you will need to calculate the structural cost of refurbishing the home. I would allow €1,900 per sq. metre in terms of potential cost, as this is the banks’ minimum costs for self-building. It is prudent, then, to cost at least this much, even though you may not be knocking the structure down and starting again.  

While there are grants available to refurbishers, such as the derelict house grant, which gives between €50,000 and €70,000 towards the refurbishment, a person should remember that these grants are only paid out if the work is pre-approved, completed within a certain time frame, and to a certain set standard. In mortgage terms, the banks will not include these retroactive grants into your budget as they cannot ‘guarantee’ you will eventually receive the payment, so best advice is to leave them aside when budgeting. 

When working out the overall purchase and renovation cost, it is important to factor in more than just the purchase price.

Allow for stamp duty, which is generally one per cent unless you are buying a very expensive property, as well as legal and bank valuation fees and any engineer’s fees. You will also need to budget for the renovation itself, including labour, materials and professional services, along with a contingency allowance for overruns and price increases. This should be a minimum of 10 per cent of the renovation costs. Planning costs should also be considered. While not every renovation requires planning permission, with some internal alterations and certain limited extensions potentially qualifying as exempted development, the relevant conditions and size restrictions must be met. Planning permission may still be required where the proposed works materially change the appearance or use of the building.

There are a couple of main options in funding all of the above. 

Option A  — Mortgage
plus cash
In this scenario the purchaser obtains a standard mortgage to purchase the property and then pays for the renovation from their savings. This is relatively straightforward but requires substantial cash reserves. However, even in this scenario the house must be deemed liveable for the bank to fund. As with all purchases, your chosen bank will do background checks on the property, using tools such as Daft.ie, their own valuer assessing the property, and they may request a copy of a structural report. If the house is over 100-years-old, they will always request the structural report. If this report calls out any defects, the banks will require proof that the buyer can afford repair them upfront and may restructure the mortgage, for example by releasing 90 per cent of the  approved mortgage funds upfront and only allowing the remaining 10 per cent to drawdown once confirmation that the necessary works have been completed has been received. 

Generally, though, if the house is structurally sound and in a habitable condition the bank will fund on it and you can use your cash to renovate afterwards. It is really important to remember that while you will look at a house as a potential forever home, the bank will always take a more clinical view of it – it is their security, after all, so they will look at a property and ask themselves, “how easy will it be to sell this house if we ever have to repossess it?”

Option B — Renovation/
self-build mortgage
This mortgage works exactly like a self-build mortgage, the type that someone looking to build a new home from scratch would apply for. The house is basically treated like a site, so the bank will give approximately 80 per cent of the purchase price upfront, with the remaining mortgage to be paid out in ‘stage payments’ as work progresses, just like a new build. Like self-builds, a person must have the full cost of the purchase and renovation, plus associated fees, accounted for ‘before’ a mortgage will be approved for same. 

In this scenario, lenders will normally want detailed information about the proposed project, including detailed engineer’s costings on the bank’s specific template, plans, valuations and professional reports. A customer ‘must’ engage an engineer to cost and oversee the proposed works – they cannot perform this role themselves, even if they happen to have experience in the building trade. 

Grants
There are numerous governments grants available that will apply to older properties, and these can improve comfort, reduce running costs and make an older property more attractive in the future. Typical measures include rebates for attic and wall insulation, airtightness improvements, ventilation, heating controls, heat pumps, solar photovoltaic panels and upgraded windows.

SEAI provides several routes for home energy upgrades, including individual grants, fully managed upgrades through registered One Stop Shops and support for qualifying households. Crucially, we would strongly advise that a person seeks professional guidance and advice from professionals rather than relying on hearsay and anecdotal information. 

If a person is looking to use the Vacant house or Derelict house grant, they should not assume that a property will qualify simply because it looks abandoned. They may need evidence showing how long it has been vacant, proof of ownership, quotations and confirmation that work has not started prematurely. Conditions concerning occupancy, rental use or repayment may also apply. Grant eligibility should therefore be confirmed with the relevant local authority ‘before purchasing the property or commencing work’. These grants should be treated as conditional funding rather than guaranteed money. One point to note, though, is that if a person successfully claims the derelict or Vacant house grant, a second charge will be put on the title for a period of 10 years. This may lead to difficultly switching mortgages during that 10-year period. 

If you have any questions on the above, or would like to speak to us in connection with a mortgage, please don’t hesitate to contact us.  www.mtf.ie

August is one of the most rewarding months in the gardening calendar, with borders, containers and vegetable plots all reaching their peak. This year, we have experienced some of the warmest weather on record over the past few weeks, making careful attention to watering more important than ever.

Water thoroughly and regularly during prolonged dry spells, aiming to water early in the morning or later in the evening when temperatures are cooler. Avoid watering during the hottest part of the day, as much of the moisture will simply evaporate before reaching the roots. Direct water to the base of plants rather than onto flowers and foliage, helping to reduce the risk of disease while ensuring the moisture reaches where it is needed most.

Plants growing in containers dry out particularly quickly during warm weather and should continue to receive regular liquid feeds throughout the month. An organic seaweed-based fertiliser is an excellent choice, promoting healthy growth, strong root development and prolonged flowering.

Regular deadheading remains one of the most important summer maintenance jobs. Removing faded flowers keeps plants looking tidy and encourages them to direct their energy into producing fresh blooms, ensuring colourful displays continue well into the autumn.

Dahlias are undoubtedly among the stars of the August garden. With regular watering, feeding and deadheading they will continue producing magnificent flowers until the arrival of the first autumn frosts. Few plants can rival dahlias for the sheer diversity of colour, flower shape and size available.

Gardeners can choose from elegant single-flowered varieties as well as richly double blooms, while the different groups include dinner plate, cactus, pompon, decorative and bedding dahlias. One particularly outstanding variety is ‘Bishop of Llandaff’, whose rich copper-coloured foliage provides a striking contrast to its vivid scarlet-red flowers.

Birds: During prolonged periods of hot, dry weather it is essential to provide birds with an adequate supply of fresh, clean water for both drinking and bathing. Refill bird baths regularly to ensure the water remains cool and hygienic.

Roses: Rambling roses should be pruned immediately after flowering to encourage healthy new growth for next season. Continue deadheading repeat-flowering roses throughout the garden and remove unwanted side shoots as soon as they appear. Container-grown roses benefit greatly from a weekly liquid feed, while recently planted roses should receive generous watering during dry spells. As with all plants, keep water away from the flowers and foliage wherever possible.

Take cuttings: August is an excellent month for propagating many tender perennials. Healthy cuttings can be taken from pelargoniums, fuchsias, salvias and lemon verbena to provide beautiful plants for next year’s garden. Keep the young plants in a frost-free greenhouse throughout the winter and inspect them regularly for signs of pest damage.

Collect seed: Many annuals and perennials will now be producing ripening seed. Collect seed from your favourite plants while it is fully mature and dry, storing it in clearly labelled packets or containers with waterproof labels for future sowing.

Fruit garden: Plant new strawberry runners into clean ground that has not recently grown strawberries, helping to minimise the build-up of soil-borne pests and diseases. Complete the summer pruning of apples and pears during the month to maintain healthy trees and encourage quality fruit production.

Weeding: Keeping on top of weeds is essential throughout August. Weeds compete with ornamental and edible plants for both moisture and nutrients at a time when water is already in short supply. Hoeing remains one of the most effective methods of control, particularly during long periods of settled weather. Choose a warm, dry day – ideally with a drying breeze – and hoe early in the morning, allowing uprooted weeds every opportunity to wither in the sunshine.

Bulbs for autumn planting and spring colour: Autumn is not far away, making this the perfect time to begin planning next spring’s displays. Autumn and spring flowering cyclamen, together with colchicums, should be planted without delay as bulbs left unplanted for too long can begin to shrivel.

Garden centres will soon be well stocked with spring-flowering bulbs including dwarf iris, narcissi, crocus, hyacinths, anemones, fritillarias and ornamental alliums.

Hyacinths can also be planted now for colourful Christmas displays indoors. For the most effective results, plant a single variety and colour in each container, placing the bulbs close together, almost shoulder to shoulder. Where containers lack drainage holes, use bulb fibre, which provides excellent drainage while keeping the growing medium fresh and healthy. Other excellent bulbs for early indoor colour include amaryllis, freesias and fragrant narcissi such as ‘Paperwhite’ and ‘Grand Soleil d’Or’.

Tulip bulbs will also begin appearing in garden centres this month. It is well worth choosing your favourites early while the widest selection is available. However, tulips are best planted later, during November or December, so store them in a cool, dry place in wooden slatted trays until planting time.

Wisteria can be pruned during August to keep vigorous growth under control and encourage better flowering next spring.

Vegetable garden: Sweetcorn should be harvested as the cobs ripen, while courgettes are at their very best when picked young at around 15 centimetres in length. Allowing them to become oversized reduces both flavour and tenderness.

Continue harvesting cabbage, cauliflower, broccoli and kohlrabi as they mature. Keep a careful watch for caterpillar damage and treat promptly where necessary. Rabbits and pigeons can also cause considerable damage, particularly to brassicas, so effective protection should remain in place.

Providing colour now: August gardens can be filled with colour from an outstanding range of reliable flowering plants.

Cosmos produces masses of delicate flowers in shades of white and pink above attractive feathery foliage and continues flowering for many weeks.

Osteospermum is an excellent sun-loving perennial, thriving in warm, well-drained positions and performing particularly well in coastal gardens.

Hydrangeas continue flowering from late summer into autumn. During prolonged dry weather they require deep, thorough watering followed by a generous mulch to help conserve soil moisture.

Begonias provide continuous displays of vibrant flowers well into autumn and are particularly valuable in containers and bedding displays.

Penstemon ‘Garnet’ remains one of the finest penstemons available, combining exceptional flowering with excellent winter hardiness.

Salvias are available in an impressive range of colours and flower continuously into autumn, performing equally well in borders and containers.

Sweet peas remain one of the garden’s finest cut flowers, offering a wonderful fragrance together with a remarkable range of colours. Regular cutting encourages continuous flowering throughout the season. Weekly feeding with a seaweed-based liquid fertiliser will help maintain vigorous growth and abundant blooms.

‘Euryops pectinatus’ is a cheerful, sun-loving half-hardy perennial producing bright yellow daisy flowers almost continuously from April until November. It is especially well suited to coastal gardens.

Fuchsias are invaluable for beds and borders, often flowering from May until late November. Continue monitoring plants for signs of rust and downy mildew throughout the season.

Pelargoniums, often referred to as geraniums, also provide a remarkably long flowering season. Gardeners looking for something a little different should consider the beautiful rosebud varieties.

Verbena offers attractive shades of pink, red, white and lavender, making it one of the finest choices for containers and hanging baskets, with flowers continuing well into autumn.

With regular maintenance, careful watering and timely feeding, August rewards gardeners with some of the finest displays of the entire gardening year while also providing the opportunity to prepare for the seasons ahead.

by Liz O’Mahony

The question of whether or not dogs feel guilt is a very interesting premise and one that has been researched at length by many people including a 2009 study by dog cognition expert, Dr Alexandra Horowitz. All have concluded – probably not!

“Not true,” I hear you say. “If I come home to find something torn to shreds, my dog looks really guilty!” Let me refute this argument. Dogs live in the moment. They get excited or frenetic while tearing something apart and enjoy the adrenalin rush that it generates. Once that arousal is over, they forget the action including the pleasure, and possibly curl up and go to sleep. The point is that dogs don’t actually relate to past historic actions unless that history is repeated or they imagine it could be replicated – such as the horror of an aggressive dog attacking them. That fear or feeling the need to retaliate manifests itself each time they encounter a strange dog or the culprit reappears to threaten their personal space. But, that is something entirely different.

So why does my dog look so guilty when I return to find the results of his destruction laid before me you ask? It’s not guilt. It’s because your dog is reading your body language, your face, even your thoughts. You return home to find a cloud of stuffing, paper, whatever, littered across the room from a canine riot! On being faced with this disaster, your body language changes immediately. Your face registers surprise, shock, horror, swiftly followed by anger and consternation. Your whole body stiffens with outrage. Your normal soft vocal tones are replaced by shouting, possibly even expletives!

These are all natural reactions to the situation. However, your dog registers all of this but has no idea why. He doesn’t connect your reaction to his earlier errant behaviour. All he notes is that you’ve turned into a monster who must be appeased. And appeasement is what you interpret as guilt for his actions. So he makes himself as small as possible to indicate that he’s no threat. You interpret this as him cowering with remorse for his misdemeanour under the might of your wrath. His ears flatten on his head; his head lowers, and he avoids eye contact. All of these actions are submissive and an act of appeasement to counteract your anger. It’s easy to interpret that as the human emotion of guilt.

However, you need to take a reality check here. First of all, as already explained, you need to understand that there’s absolutely no point in scolding your dog for a past action because he’s no idea why you’re irate. All you are doing is making your dog nervous around you fearing you might explode at any time in the future. Therefore, you’re undermining any trust that might have been building in your relationship with him.

Here are a few positive pointers to better manage this situation:

If your dog is destructive by nature, use a crate for the times that you are absent. Or place him behind a child gate in a room that has nothing ‘chewable’ except for his own toys but these should be indestructible. Think of it as “avoiding the occasion of sin!” If he can’t get access to items that can be destroyed, he may simply grow out of or forget this unwanted behaviour.

Only intervene if your dog is actually making a beeline to chew something he shouldn’t. But that obviously means you have to be present to do this. And ensure you preempt his actions rather than attempting to stop him when his adrenalin is aroused, as he’ll be less inclined to listen to you.

Remember to reward all good behaviour with praise and treats. Dogs get to enjoy those words of praise from you. They’re a guideline that you’re happy with what they are doing. Therefore, your silence when your dog starts doing something bold will speak volumes.

If you do come home to destruction, take a deep breath and try to stay calm. It’s important for you to control your emotions as an example to your dog. But again, maintaining silence and ignoring your dog will help get the right message across that you’re not impressed with his behaviour. Ranting and raving in front of your dog teaches him nothing except that you’re scary! And as dogs copy our behaviour, you don’t want him mirroring your lack of self control in canine terms.

If your dog persists in destructive behaviour despite your best efforts in training, you may need to call in an expert who can give you advice and methods as to how to deal with this.

Some breeds of dogs are more inclined to chew than others. But, if you start teaching them from the moment they come to live with you, you will have success.

This month Natalie Webb is showing us how to make a rocking boat.

Materials: 

•  Four different coloured pieces of card – I used red, yellow, black and blue.

•  Scissors  •  Glue  •  Marker  

•  Googly eye (optional)

Choose a colour that you want your boat to be (I chose red) and draw a circle approx 17cm diameter on it (I drew around a saucer). Cut out your circle, then fold it in half and you will have your rocking shape.

With a different colour card (I used yellow) draw out a rectangle 4cm x 10cm. Cut it out and put glue along the edge before sticking it onto the top of your rocking shape.

Now cut out another rectangle from the same colour card as your main rocking shape, glue along the edge and stick it behind your first rectangle so that the top edge is showing.

Cut out three black circles and stick them onto the larger rectangle.

With the same colour card as the large rectangle, cut out a small circle approx 5cm diameter. Then cut a circle in the middle to make a ring. 

With the same card cut out two funnel shapes 1cm wide, with one slightly taller than the other.

Stick the ring on the bottom left of the boat and glue the funnels on the back of the boat, at the top so that they are sticking up.

Using a red marker draw stripes on your funnels and lines on your rubber ring.

To finish off I thought it would be fun to stick a little fish on, so with your last colour card draw and cut out a little fish. Draw on scales and if you have a googly eye, stick it on… you can also draw on an eye. Glue your fish on to your boat and there you have it, a cute little boat that rocks. Now make a few more in different colours!