We spoke back in February about the significant changes to several SEAI grant schemes. As of February 3, 2026, heat pump grants have increased to a maximum of €12,500. This total now includes a new €4,000 Renewable Heat Bonus (essentially a boiler scrappage scheme) and a €2,000 Central Heating Upgrade grant, alongside existing supports. Crucially, this level of funding is now available through Better Energy Homes individual grants – which previously capped out at €6,500 – as well as the One Stop Shop, (OSS) route. Grants for attic and cavity wall insulation have also seen an uplift.

At the start of March, the highly-anticipated Windows and Doors grant launched under the individual measure scheme, previously only available under the OSS grant route. This rollout included higher supports for households receiving certain Social Protection payments and new attic insulation grants specifically for first-time buyers. Additionally, homeowners who previously received a grant for cavity or internal wall insulation may now qualify for a second wall insulation grant.

From what we’ve seen through our own business, the window and door grant is causing the most confusion – which isn’t surprising. The rules and application process are more complex than most other measures, and the full details aren’t always clear on the SEAI website. This month, I want to dive deeper into the intricate details of these new grants.

First, let’s cover the straightforward requirements:

Property Age: Your house must have been built and occupied before 2011.

Performance: New windows and doors must meet a U-value of 1.4 or better (a U-value measures heat loss; the lower the number, the better the insulation).

Contractor: You must use an SEAI-registered contractor.

Timeline: You must apply online via the SEAI Better Energy Homes portal before you start the work.

Payment: You have the work completed, pay the contractor, have a BER assessment completed afterward and then claim the grant back.

The complexity lies in the ‘fabric-first’ criteria specific to windows and doors. To qualify, your home must meet one of the following:

Heat Loss Indicator (HLI): You must achieve an HLI of 2.3 or lower after the windows/doors are fitted. This is the same metric used to determine heat pump readiness.

Advisory Report: Alternatively, your BER Advisory Report must show your walls and roof as being rated ‘Good’ or ‘Very Good’.

Confirming eligibility is tricky and depends on the age of your home and your current BER status.

If you have a BER (Post-July 2021): You likely have the new-format Advisory Report. You can check this immediately to see your current HLI and wall/roof ratings.

If you have a BER (Pre-July 2021): These older reports don’t display this level of detail. The full data would need to be requested from the SEAI for review, which usually requires professional assistance.

If you don’t have a BER: You will likely need a pre-BER assessment to check eligibility and determine if upgrades to your attic or walls are required first.

Note on 2005-2010 Homes: Houses in this age bracket often meet the ‘Good’ wall and roof definitions by default due to the building regulations of that time.

In all cases, a final BER is required to claim the grant. If you are relying on an existing BER to check compliance, it makes sense to use the same assessor for the final BER to ensure consistency. If starting from scratch, most assessors, including ourselves, now offer a combined ‘pre-and-post’ BER service for these grants.

Finally, keep in mind that this is a ‘whole house’ upgrade. You cannot get the grant to replace just a few windows while leaving poor-performing ones behind. If you’ve upgraded some windows recently (within the last 10 years), they likely already meet the 1.4 U-value and can be retained, provided you can supply a Declaration of Performance from the original supplier.

As always, if you would like to get in touch about anything in this article or your own retrofit project, feel free to reach out: ruairi@retrofurb.ie.

Gardening By John Hosford

As April unfolds, the days are lengthening, and with the clocks having shifted forward to Summer Time at the end of March, we now enjoy those extra evening hours. This extended daylight offers a wonderful opportunity to catch up on various gardening tasks. There’s plenty to do this month, from seed sowing both indoors and outdoors to weeding, planting, and pruning.

Cut back evergreen shrubs

Start by cutting back evergreen shrubs. It’s an ideal time to prune Mediterranean shrubs such as lavender and rosemary; make sure to cut them back to healthy buds. Avoid trimming into old, lifeless wood, as this may not reshoot. Plants like Fatsia, Hebe, and Escallonia can benefit from a light trim, while Ceanothus, Choisya, Daphne, Mahonia, Rhododendrons, Camellias, Azaleas, and Sarcococca should be pruned after flowering, ideally in May or June.

Deadhead daffodils 

Deadheading daffodils and other spring bulbs is essential after the flowers have faded. This practice diverts energy back into the bulbs, helping them bulk up for an even better display next year. If you have water lilies that have outgrown their space, now is the time to divide them. Carefully remove the plant and use a sharp knife to cut the root ball into sections, ensuring each has at least one shoot and some roots. Replant these sections into pond baskets filled with aquatic compost.

Feed trees, shrubs and perennials

Feeding trees, shrubs, and perennials is also crucial this month. Specialised feeds are available for lime-hating plants like Rhododendrons, Azaleas, Camellias, Skimmias, Sarcococca, and Kalmia, which will thrive with an application. Roses should also receive their monthly feed with a special rose fertiliser, followed by another application in May and June. When applying fertiliser, spread it out at a distance proportional to the height of the tree or bush, as roots typically expand to a distance equal to the plant’s height.

Vegetable garden

In the vegetable garden, sow peas in a sunny, sheltered position, planting them in a flat-bottomed trench about 5cm deep and 15cm wide, spacing them 7.5 cm apart in a single row or in two rows 30 cm apart. Remember to support them with robust wire netting. For potatoes, plant out second early and maincrop varieties, ensuring second earlies are set 30cm apart in rows 30cm apart and maincrops 37 cm apart. Earthing up first earlies protects the stems from cold weather and encourages more tubers to form. This process can be repeated as later varieties emerge above ground. Protect young crops with a double layer of extra-strength frost protection fleece, cloches, or cold frames.

You can also sow carrots and cabbages in prepared beds, covering them with fleece or insect-proof mesh to protect against carrot fly and cabbage white butterflies, whose larvae can devastate brassicas like cabbages, broccoli, and Brussels sprouts. Additionally, sow courgettes, vegetable marrows, pumpkins, squashes, cucumbers, melons, sweet corn, runner beans, and both bush and climbing French beans in 10 cm pots in a heated, frost-free area indoors. You can plant one seed per pot or two and select the strongest seedling once they emerge. These can be moved outdoors at the end of May or early June after hardening off.

Tomato plants can be planted in their fruiting quarters this month, whether in greenhouse soil, grow-bags, or large pots. Trailing varieties are perfect for hanging baskets or window boxes but must be kept frost-free.

Fruit garden

In the fruit garden, mulch raspberry canes with organic matter such as well-composted garden compost or stable manure. If those aren’t available, the excellent Gee-up from Blarney, Co. Cork, is a great substitute and widely available in garden outlets throughout Cork County. Indoors, geraniums, pelargoniums, fuchsias, and streptocarpus should now start receiving regular weekly liquid feeds. A seaweed-based fertiliser works well, and these plants should be fed weekly until early October to encourage healthy growth and blooming.

Citrus trees should begin receiving special citrus feed. Once the frost has passed at the end of May, they can be moved outdoors, provided they have drainage holes. Houseplants will require more frequent watering, and it’s best to stand them in a sink while watering, allowing them to drain without standing in water for more than 30 minutes.

April flowers

April also brings a delightful array of flowering plants. Bergenia showcases white, pink, and red flowers on glossy, leathery leaves and serves as excellent ground cover for early colour. Brunnera, with its green and variegated varieties, offers dainty blue flowers. The profuse blooms of crab apples are followed by attractive autumn fruit, while dogs tooth violets present low, clump-forming bulbs for shade. Dicentra spectabilis, or bleeding heart, boasts tall, elegant foliage.

Exochorda produces profuse white flowers, while Fritillaria persica captivates with purple spires of bloom, best planted as bulbs in autumn. Flowering cherries offer a stunning display of pink and white flowers, and some varieties feature attractive polished bark. Pulmonaria provides early colour in low-growing shades of blue, red, and white. Many rhododendron varieties will be in bloom this month, thriving in lime-free, ericaceous compost and benefiting from annual feed with a specific Rhododendron/Azalea fertiliser. Tulips will also be in flower, presenting a variety of colours, so remember to protect them from slugs.

For bedding and patio plants, containers, window boxes, and hanging baskets can now be planted and established in a greenhouse. Use fresh compost and include a slow-release fertiliser. Ensure window boxes have drainage outlets before planting.

Lastly, keep your lawn in check by mowing regularly, starting with the blades at their highest setting. Gradually lower the setting by the end of the month. Feed established lawns, aerate to rake out thatch, and give your lawn a spring feed. If you’re establishing new lawns, prepare the ground properly.

April is a vibrant month in the garden, full of opportunities to nurture and enjoy your plants. 

Happy gardening!

Canine Corner by Liz Mahony

Since my youth, I’ve been an avid people and animal watcher totally fascinated by interactions between the human and animal species. And it has never lost its appeal for me. So, over the beautiful weekend we experienced a fortnight ago, I took Saffron, my Boxer, into Dunmanway, to sit outside my favourite cafe to watch the world go by in the town square. She particularly loves this pastime, believing that anyone who appears on the pavement is specifically interested in saying hello to her

Not only that, the girls in the cafe spoil her, bringing out a bowl of water especially for her and giving her cuddles. She’s a gentle dog and affectionately leans into them, appreciating all the attention. There are only two small tables with four chairs outside the building, set pretty close together. While we were sitting there, a lady, having placed her order at the counter inside, arrived out and began hovering around the second table, making it obvious that Saffron was bothering her. I might add that Saffron was, in fact, sitting on my left side, and furthest from this person.

Yes, she was looking hopeful to make her acquaintance but, other than that, her manners were impeccable!

During the ensuing conversation, it transpired that this woman had had dogs in her childhood and had experienced no problems with them or any others. However, a recent encounter with her brother’s dog had frightened her because he had allowed him to bark at her in an intimidating manner, which made her feel very uneasy. Despite her discomfort, instead of dealing with the dog’s bad behaviour, her brother suggested that all she had to do was say ‘hello’ to the dog and stroke him which would appease him!

I fully understand that many of us are less than sympathetic to our siblings when they appear to overreact to a given situation but in this instance I was able to sympathise with her plight. She realised that her own fear was exacerbating the circumstances but there was much more to this.

Firstly, her brother was allowing his dog to behave rudely to visitors instead of teaching a more polite way to ‘meet and greet’ them. Suggesting that his sister approach the dog stroke him in order to calm him down was quite a feat. Not only that, by condoning this action, both his sister and the dog’s owner were simply reinforcing this bad behaviour, and over time, this appeasement rather than education, could lead to an escalation of it.

Let’s put this scenario into human terms. Would it be in order for a child to rudely confront a visitor and intimidate him/her? I think not! And would we, as parents, allow it? Again, I think not. Then why do we allow a dog to do it? It’s unjust to both dog and visitor.

The lady in question couldn’t believe that Saffron wasn’t barking at her. But then, she hadn’t really looked at her in a meaningful way. She just imagined that because her brother’s dog was ill-mannered and confrontational, ergo, all dogs are like that. When you translate that view into general terms, it means that, as dog owners, we are starting off at a disadvantage. People seem prepared to believe the worst in others – and, more importantly, their dogs. It puts a huge responsibility on us, as owners, to prove them wrong, not for our own sakes but for the good of our precious canines.

The more people decide that dogs are all ill-mannered, likely to bite, noisy or confrontational, the more open spaces, towns, and so on, are going to become ‘no-go’ areas for us and our companions. And the more that happens, the harder it will be to re-open those spaces to us. And if that occurs, it will be even harder to convince people, other than dog owners, that our canine companions are actually welcome in our urban and country life.

Where can we start to remedy this situation? Firstly, I think we have to prove to others that our dogs can behave politely in all situations. That means training them at home and socialising them outside the family milieu – just like I was doing with Saffron on that Saturday. It means teaching our dogs to behave on every occasion and rewarding them for it.

Secondly, we really have to address this business of picking up after our dogs in towns and areas where there will be human contact. Apart from the hygienic point of view, it doesn’t look so good seeing dog excrement left lying on pavements and, as already said, it doesn’t help our case for allowing us to socialise our dogs in any and all areas. In doing so, we might help others to see our well-behaved dogs as pleasant individuals rather than an unruly collective!

The season that all gardeners long for is upon us. Recent weather has been challenging to say the least, but just like the longed for Spring, hope of brighter days, fresh growth and new beginnings are in the air writes Mattie Keane of Future Forests.

There is nothing quite like Spring bulbs bursting into flower to announce that Spring has finally arrived. While many bulbs are planted in autumn, some can also be planted while actively growing in the Spring or ‘in the green’ as it is called in the trade. Some of my absolute Spring favourites like bluebells, snowdrops, winter aconites and even wild garlic (allium ursinum) tend to establish really well when planted this way. Spring is the time to visit your local woodlands in the hope to come across carpets of these native wildflowers in full bloom – a sight so breathtaking it can stop you in your tracks. That magical woodland effect can be recreated at home by planting swaths of these bulbs underneath deciduous trees or in lightly shaded areas where they will naturalise freely over time.

Japanese flowering cherries are rightly highly-regarded for their showy displays, but there is another group of flowering cherries that are a little bit less known, but should not be overlooked. Just like our native blackthorn – another prunus – (Prunus cerasifera) flowers before the leaf emerges in Spring and its branches are smothered in single white flowers. This common species is called Cherry plum and goes on to produce quite large red or yellow fruits in the Autumn, these can be eaten fresh, but are usually cooked or used in preserves and it is often included in our permaculture hedging mixes. One of its best-known cultivars, Prunus cerasifera ‘Nigra’ produces masses of striking pink flowers in early spring, followed by attractive dark foliage. 

Forsythia is a firm Spring favourite, it is such an easy shrub to grow and many people will recognise its pretty, bright, golden yellow flowers, that for me are a definite reminder that Spring is well and truly here. This versatile shrub responds well to trimming and can even be used as a flowering hedge. It does flower on old wood, so best to prune it immediately after flowering to ensure plenty of blooms for next year. Forsythia x intermedia ‘Spectabilis’ is the most well known form, but other varieties like ‘Weekend’ with its large, abundant flowers and ‘Manchuria’, a compact and early flowering variety, offer something a little bit different.

Another yellow flowering shrub that I admire is Edgeworthia chrysantha ‘Grandiflora’. Its branches are famously pliable and it is used to make high quality paper in Japan hence its common name, ‘The Paper Bush’. This unusual shrub can start to flower in late Winter, but more often in Spring. On bare stems, it produces large, yellow, fragrant flowers. It is hardy to around minus-five degrees Celsius, so benefits from a sheltered position, ideally near a wall and somewhere you’ll pass regularly to enjoy its delicious scent. It also grows beautifully in a container. I have seen several mature specimens thriving here in West Cork, with thoughtful placement, it can be a true garden treasure.

Spring flowers will bring beauty to your garden, but having early flowering plants is also a massive benefit to pollinators, do keep in mind that single rather than double flowers are generally much easier for pollinators to access. Another Spring favourite of mine that adds a completely different feature to the garden is catkins, Hazel is really striking at this time of the year, as is alder, and willow is a particularly vital early food source for pollinators and so lovely when covered in its showy catkins. 

The bare-root season is drawing to a close at the end of March. If you’ve been considering planting an orchard, creating a native hedgerow, or getting a few trees into the ground, there is still time but you need to do it soon.

We are very well stocked at Future Forests, with new exciting deliveries landing in every week. If it’s a bit cold outside, you can always warm yourself with a light bite or a hot drink from the Coffee Bee, which is open Thursday to Sunday, year round. We look forward to seeing you.

At one time in Ireland, the average adult consumed over six kilos of potatoes per day or just over two tons per year! If you consider there were over eight million people eating this staple food, it is estimated that over 330,000 hectares were cultivated to grow this amount of potatoes. These were not the varieties that we are familiar with today but mostly the dreaded Lumper variety described as “wet, tasteless and unwholesome” potato variety that triggered the Irish ‘Potato’ Famine. Today about 9000 hectares are grown (producing an impressive 370,000 tons) and our average annual potato consumption is just 85kg a person, which is still two-and-a-half times higher than the world average. Despite this you may be surprised to learn we still import over 50 per cent of the potatoes consumed in Ireland.

We have ideal growing conditions in West Cork and we are finding many of our customers here at Deelish are getting fantastic returns on their home grown spuds! This season we have over 20 varieties in stock. Each year we try to source new varieties, as well as stocking tried and tested favourites such as Roosters and British Queens. For this month’s article, I thought it would be a good idea to have a look at how to grow your own. 

There is plenty of time to plant this wonderful vegetable, which is traditionally planted on St.Patricks day but can also be planted as late as May.

Seed potatoes are dived into three main groups listed below:

First earlies; Plant early to mid March. 10-12 weeks to mature. Less chance of blight but smaller harvest. Popular varieties; Orla, Duke of York, Sharpe’s Express, Home Guard

Second earlies; Plant mid March to early April. 12-14 weeks to mature. Small chance of blight. Good selection Medium harvest. Popular varieties; British Queens, Charlotte, Nicola. Maris Peer

Main crop; Plant in April. 18-22 weeks to mature. More chance of blight. Large harvest. Popular varieties; Rooster, Golden wonders,  Kerr’s pink, Sarpo Mira.

Chitting
Once you have decided which varieties you want to grow, it is time to ‘chit’ (spelled with a c)! Seed potatoes, particularly earlies and second earlies benefit from ‘chitting’ prior to being planted. This process encourages strong shoots to sprout over several weeks to encourage faster growth and heavier crops once they’re in the ground.

From late January/February, chit your seed potatoes by setting them out in seed trays, shallow boxes or empty egg cartons in a cool, bright, frost-free position to allow them to sprout. You will notice that the immature ‘chits’ are all at one end (called the rose end). Place the rose end upwards. Sturdy ‘chits’ will form and should grow one inch in length. Be careful not to let them get any longer, as they can break when planting out, slowing down the growth. Main crops don’t necessarily need to be chitted.

Planting out
Once you are happy with your chitted seed potatoes and the weather seems right, you are ready to plant! Here in West Cork, it is possible to plant seed potatoes right through the year under the protection of glass houses and polytunnels. Outside it is possible to plant out after the last frost, (typically mid to late March). The soil should be freshly dug over and weed free.The traditional way is to dig a narrow trench 12cm (5in) deep. This can be lined with compost or even grass clippings for a better crop. As potatoes are hungry growers, I also add organic horse manure or chicken pellets, as well as seaweed to the trench at this stage. The seed tubers are spaced 30cm (12”) apart for earlies and 37cm (15”) for main crop varieties. The rows should be 24” (60cm) apart for earlies and 75cm (30in) apart for maincrop. Planting depth is also important, as if they are planted too shallow they are unlikely to produce large tubers and too deep they will struggle to  grow at all. The ideal planting depth is just over 4-5” (10-13cm) depending on the size of your seed potatoes.

There are other ways of growing if you do not have a large garden, or any garden at all! Small crops of potatoes can be grown in large, deep containers (rubble sacks and stacked tyres also work) and this is a good way of getting an early batch of new potatoes. Line the bottom 15cm (6in) of the container with potting compost and plant the seed potato just below this. As the new stems start growing, keep adding compost until the container is full.

Aftercare
It is important to ‘earth up’ potato crops as the shoots emerge above ground, to protect them from frosts which blacken the shoots and delay production. Simply draw some soil over the top of the shoots to cover them again.

If there is a chance of a late frost, cover the new shoots with a garden fleece or straw. Remove when the threat of frost has passed.

First earlies and second earlies in particular require plenty of water during prolonged dry weather especially when tubers are starting to form. This is also a good time to feed with an organic liquid concentrate. This will strengthen the plants against disease and improve yields.

When the stems reach a height of 23cm (9”) above ground they should be earthed up again to prevent tubers near to the soil surface from turning green.

Weed out any unwanted plants along the trenches through the season (if the potatoes are growing well, there won’t be many).

Harvesting
Harvesting times will vary depending on the growing season, weather conditions at harvest time and the size of tuber you want. Start to harvest first earlies as ‘new potatoes’ when the plants begin to flower, approximately 10-12 weeks from planting. Tubers will generally become larger the longer their growing period.

Maincrop varieties are usually left for at least two weeks after the leaves and stems have withered, to allow the skins to set. Cut down the stems with secateurs to just above soil level as the leaves wither and yellow, or if they show signs of blight. After harvesting, leave the tubers on the soil surface for a few hours to dry and cure the skin. Once dry store them in paper or hessian sacks in a dark, cool but frost free place. Avoid storing in polythene bags as potatoes will ‘sweat’ and rot. Some main crop varieties tend to taste sweeter a few weeks or months after harvesting, as the starches change to sugar.

Common problems
Potato blight: This is the most common disease in our wet, warm summers. The initial symptoms are a rapidly spreading brown watery rot, affecting the leaves, and stems. Tubers can be affected too, and have a reddish-brown decay below the skin, firm at first but soon developing into a soft rot.

Remedy – Spray potato crops with a protective fungicide even before signs of blight become apparent. Copper sulphate is used as a preventative, not a cure. Add 50g Bluestone (copper sulphate) to two litres of hot water. In a separate container add 60g washing soda to three litres of hot water. After half an hour, mix the two liquids and spray directly onto the potatoes, making sure to spray under the leaves as well. Do not spray if raining, as the mixture will not stick. Use a watering can in the absence of a sprayer and ensure to clean it thoroughly after use. This five litre mixture is enough for 20 square metres. Begin spraying this potato blight treatment from about June, particularly when periods of wet weather are forecast and spray again after a few weeks to protect any new growth. 

We have also had great feedback from gardeners spraying with horsetail concentrate available as a concentrate here at Deelish. If plants do become infected they should be removed and destroyed. Where potato crops have already developed tubers then these can be saved by cutting away the foliage and stems. Leave the soil undisturbed for 2/3 weeks to kill off any lingering spores so that they don’t infect the crop when it is lifted. 

Always try and grow potatoes on new ground or rotate every year if possible. Keeping the potatoes fed with a good organic fertiliser containing plenty of trace elements will also help with preventing blight. 

If you want to grow main crop potatoes but worry about blight, another option is to grow any of the following; Sarpo Mira, Axona along Vitabella (one of my favorites) as  well as  many more varieties  have  all been bred for high blight resistance.

Potato blackleg: Potato blackleg is a common bacterial disease which causes black rotting at the stem base. Initial infections cause stunted growth and yellowing stems. If tubers form, the flesh may be grey or brown and rotten.

Remedy – Blackleg generally infects individual plants rather than entire crops and does not spread between plants or persist in the soil. Remove and destroy any infected plants, improve soil drainage and plant blackleg resistant potato varieties such as Charlotte.

Potato scab: This disease causes raised scab-like lesions on the potato surface. It does not affect the taste of the potato, and is easily removed on peeling. 

Remedy – Common Scab on potatoes is best controlled by improving poor soil conditions with the addition of organic matter and by keeping potato crops well watered throughout the growing season. Use any infected tubers first and do not store them. Home guard is well known variety for scab resistance.

Eelworm: Initially, crops display patches of poor growth and affected plants may show chlorosis and wilting, with poor top growth. These symptoms develop from the ground upwards. Heavily infested plants die prematurely and yield a poor crop of under-sized tubers. 

Remedy – There are no pesticides available to home gardeners, which will control  eelworms, and so crop rotation should be used to avoid spreading the pest and to reduce infestations. Some varieties are more resistant. Nicola (another of my favourites) and Picasso have good Eelworm resistance.

Slugs: Slugs cause damage to both the foliage and to the developing potato tubers. Damage is fairly obvious as the culprits are easily identified by the silvery slime trails that are left around the plant foliage and on the soil surface.

Remedy – There are a multitude of ways to kill or remove slugs and snails including homemade remedies such as beer traps. Use eco-friendly slug pellets or you can try nematodes or copper barriers. Sarpo Mira, Golden wonders and a few others have good slug resistance.

One of the attractions of growing the humble potato is just how easy it is to grow, and how much you get in return for a bit of planning, chitting and digging! It is also an excellent crop to grow on new ground where you plan to grow other vegetables in future seasons. Don’t let any of the above common problems put you off giving them a go, as they really are a joy to grow!

Feel free to visit us here at Deelish for all your gardening needs and many more gardening tips. Wishing you all the best with the 2026 growing season ahead.

What are the advantages of growing vegetables in a raised bed?

There are some clear advantages to growing vegetables in a raised bed. The soil will be drier, which makes it easier to work, with possibly less slug problems. This is particularly advantageous when working with a heavy soil.

Raised bed growing also creates a demarcation between path and bed, making it easier to keep on top of weeds. Without footfall on beds you also avoid soil compaction. 

Gardening at ground level can be physically demanding so raised beds are slightly easier on the body as, depending on the height of the bed, you probably won’t have to stoop so low when weeding or harvesting.

What is the best location for a raised vegetable bed?

A raised bed is best made in a sheltered garden that faces South and preferably close to the house. It is best laid out roughly North to South, so the sun will get to both sides of the bed and, in the middle of the day, neighbouring beds won’t be shaded in case some beds have taller plants.

What kind of materials do I need to build a raised bed?

Safely treated wood is best but you’ll also find galvanised steel raised beds for sale. Thin concrete walls can be good too, with the added advantage that the slugs don’t like a fresh cement surface. Fill the bottom of the bed with coarse organic material and finish it off with a nice topsoil mixed with good compost at a depth of approx 25cm.

What is the best size and depth for my raised bed?

The bed should measure 1m to 1.20 wide with a total depth of soil at a minimum of 25cm. 

The height of the beam will depend on the needs of the grower and the extra soil available. 

In a tunnel you don’t want to make the beds too high as plants like tomatoes and cucumbers need to be able to grow up.

 A depth of 15 to 30cm, about path level, is ideal from my perspective, but people with mobility problems may like the beds to be higher 

How do I prepare my soil for planting seeds/plugs directly in and what is the best time of year to do this?

You can mix in well rotted garden compost/ farm yard manure or one of our general organic fertilisers (4-3-7 or 5-3-8) at the correct rate; say 1kg/4m2. This can be done now, if planting soon or closer to planting time. If sowing directly in the soil, make sure the soil is raked well and there are no big lumps. When transplanting, the soil needs to be even, but doesn’t have to be as fine. 

What type of compost would you recommend for growing vegetables?

We recommend the Klasmann Proline Organic Composts for sowing and potting on. These are of professional quality and all the commercial organic growers in Ireland use these for raising their plants. 

If you need compost to fill your raised beds we can supply bulk bags of organic-approved compost for this purpose at a very reasonable price. 

What vegetables would you advise growing?

I would recommend to grow salads, scallions, radish, spinach and chard/leafbeet, early carrots and beetroot and possibly peas or french beans. A few early potatoes can be nice too, but they will take up a lot of space. If you like herbs, it can be nice to have your own parsley, chervil, coriander and so on.

Are there vegetables that work best planted together?

Planting different crops in close proximity can mutually benefit each other, improve plant health, and increase yields. The following are some examples of companion planting.

Three Sisters: This Native American planting technique involves growing corn, beans, and squash together. Corn provides support for the beans to climb, beans fix nitrogen in the soil, and squash acts as a living mulch, suppressing weeds and conserving soil moisture.

French Marigolds and numerous Vegetables: French Marigolds (Tagetes Patula) are renowned for their ability to repel nematodes and aphids. They also attract beneficial insects such as ladybugs, lacewings, hoverflies, parasitic mini-wasps and other predatory insects that will feed on aphids and other garden pests. Marigolds are often planted with tomatoes and carrots.

Borage and Strawberries: Borage is a magnet for pollinators such and bees, butterflies and hoverflies which help pollinate the strawberries. It’s also said it can he,lp improve their flavour.

Carrots and Onions: Planting carrots and onions together is beneficial because the pungent smell of onions can help deter the carrot root fly, while the scent of carrots helps repel the onion fly.

Nasturtium and Broad Bean/Brassicas: Nasturtiums serve as an effective trap crop when planted with broad beans. They attract black flies away from the beans, safeguarding the primary crop. They work similarly with brassicas luring hungry caterpillars away.

I would like to grow potatoes this year in my raised bed. What varieties would you advise on and why?

Vitabella are a good second early crop for a raised bed, as the tops don’t grow too tall and they are very blight resistant. As a first early, Sharpes or Home Guard work very well.

When is the best time to plant potatoes and can you share any advice for encouraging a good crop?

There is no need to plant outside earlier than mid March. Often the crops planted in April actually do better.

Can potatoes be grown with other vegetables?

Potato plants become very large, so they are best grown by themselves. The early crop will be harvested in June/July, so another later vegetable can be planted after.

How do I keep slugs and pests off my vegetables?

First make sure the plants are healthy and the soil is fertile enough for the particular crop. Crops can be made stronger with a regular liquid feed or foliar spray of liquid seaweed at the right dilution rate. If there are still problems with slugs you can use organically-approved slug pellets.

What are the best edible flowers to grow?

There are many edible flowers that are a treat to eat, as well as adding colour and texture to dishes. Edible flowers can be used in salads, as cake decorations or beverage garnishes. Below is a list of the different edible flower varieties we stock at Fruit Hill Farm.

• Anise Hyssop (Agastache foeniculum): Anise hyssop boasts a sweet, licorice-like flavour with hints of mint. Its delicate purple flowers and fragrant leaves make it a versatile herb for both sweet and savoury dishes. Use it to infuse syrups, teas, and cocktails, or sprinkle the blossoms over salads and desserts.

• Borage (Borago officinalis): Borage flowers have a refreshing cucumber-like taste, making them a delightful addition to salads, cold soups, and cocktails. They can also be candied or frozen into ice cubes for an elegant touch to beverages.

• Calendula Marigold (Calendula officinalis): Calendula petals have a mild, tangy flavour reminiscent of saffron. They can be used to add a golden hue to rice dishes, soups, and stews, or infused into oils and vinegars for a pop of colour and flavour.

• Chamomile (Matricaria chamomilla): Chamomile flowers have a delicate, apple-like flavour with subtle floral notes. Chamomile is commonly used to brew soothing herbal teas, known for their calming properties. The fresh flowers can also be added to salads.

• Chive Blossoms (Allium schoenoprasum): Chive blossoms feature a mild onion flavour and can be used fresh or dried to garnish salads, soups, and savoury dishes. Their delicate purple blooms add a pop of colour and a hint of oniony goodness to any dish.

• Chrysanthemum ‘Shungiku’ (Glebionis coronaria): Shungiku is a species of annual edible chrysanthemum with shoots of up to 100 cm. The 10-20 cm long shoots can be used fresh in salad or steamed as a vegetable. The buds and flowers are also edible. It can be cut repeatedly, providing high yields and is an ideal addition to baby leaf salad.

• Clary Sage (Salvia sclarea): Clary sage flowers impart a delicate, herbal flavour with hints of citrus and mint. Use them to garnish salads, desserts, and cocktails, or infuse them into syrups, vinegars, and liqueurs for a fragrant twist.

• Cornflower (Centaurea cyanus): Cornflowers offer a subtle, earthy flavour and a stunning blue hue that can enhance both sweet and savoury dishes. Add them to salads, desserts, or baked goods for a touch of elegance and natural beauty.

• Dandelion (Taraxacum officinale): Dandelion flowers have a slightly sweet and mildly bitter taste, reminiscent of honey and endive. Use them in salads, fritters, or infused into syrups and wines.

• Dill (Anethum graveolens): Dill flowers boast a delicate, feathery appearance and a subtle, aromatic flavour reminiscent of the herb’s leaves and seeds. They are perfect for garnishing seafood dishes, salads, and pickles, or for infusing into vinegars, sauces, and dips.

• Fennel Herb (Foeniculum vulgare): Fennel flowers have a delicate anise flavour that complements a variety of dishes, from salads and seafood to desserts and cocktails. Use them to garnish salads, soups, and pasta dishes, or infuse them into oils and vinegars for a hint of aromatic sweetness.

• Lavender (Lavandula angustifolia): With its distinct floral and slightly sweet flavour, lavender can be added to both sweet and savoury dishes. Use it sparingly in baking, cocktails, salads, and even savoury dishes like roasted meats.

• Nasturtium (Tropaeolum majus): These cheerful blooms come in shades of orange, yellow, and red. The flowers have a slightly sweet flavour with a peppery, spicy kick. Add to salads, sandwiches, and savoury dishes. Nasturtium flowers can also be stuffed with soft cheeses or herb spreads for a delightful appetiser. The green seeds can be chopped and used with parsley as a garnish or pickled like capers.

• Sunflower (Helianthus annuus): Sunflower buds, petals and seeds are all edible. Add the petals to a green salad for a colour contrast and a mild nutty taste. The green buds can be blanched, then tossed in garlic butter – similar in flavour to a Jerusalem artichoke. The kernels inside the seeds can be eaten raw or toasted as a snack.

• Sweet William (Dianthus barbatus): Sweet William flowers feature a subtly spicy, clove-like flavour and vibrant colours ranging from white and pink to red and purple. They make a charming addition to salads, desserts, and cocktails.

• Thyme (Thymus vulgaris): Thyme flowers possess a subtle, earthy flavour similar to the herb’s leaves but with a slightly sweeter undertone. They can be used to garnish soups, stews, and roasted meats, or infused into oils, vinegars, and honey for a fragrant twist

• Pansy (Viola tricolor): Pansy flowers have a lettuce-like flavour and make a decorative addition to a green salad or to garnish a pâté or dessert. They can be crystallised and used to decorate cakes.

I’ve heard that herb spiral is a good way to grow herbs. Can you explain what this is and how do I create one?

Herb spirals can be very pretty, but are mainly suitable for perennial herbs, annuals like Chervil, Coriander, Dill and so on are best grown like vegetables, a small patch at the time, as they usually go to seed very quickly and need to be sown a few times during the growing season. A herb spiral is best made with solid walls from cement and stone, it will make it easier to keep on top of the weeds and keep it looking good.

By Noah Chase, Deelish Garden Centre

If you are reading this, then chances are that you’re a gardener, or at least have an interest in plants. I find gardening is an ever-expanding field of knowledge and, for this month’s article, I thought it would be fun to share some of the more unusual gardening tips, stories and useful advice that I have learned from experience over the last few decades working here at Deelish Garden Centre.

So many of our customers tell me that they sing or talk to their favourite plants and, believe it or not, studies indicate that plants also seem have a specific taste in music After putting in some research, I found that some genres of music promote growth, whereas others can be damaging to it. Roses in particular seem to love violin music. For most plants, playing classical or jazz music caused growth to increase, while harsher metal music induced stress. This may be because the vibrations of metal music are too intense for plants and stimulate cells a little too much. Think of it like massaging your plants with a song – they prefer a gentler touch. 

I have also seen houseplants in particular not growing well if they are placed in a busy spot with heavy footfall. Move them to a calmer space in your home and see the difference in growth.

While on the topic of house plants, many gardeners suggest adding the dregs of a teapot to an indoor watering can to introduce trace elements in a slow release fertiliser. If you like to clean the leaves of indoor plants, try using the  inside of a  banana peel next time for extra shine; this will also introduce trace elements.

Using unlikely household items on your plants is also something I am always keen to learn more about and I still get some unusual suggestions. I have written in the past about using strong vinegar and salt as weed killers (they work so well that we stock both) and while some gardeners use salt to kill slugs, I think beer traps (they really do work) are a much kinder option! Vinegar can be used to clean gardening tools, as well as acting as a deterrent to rabbits and deer from eating plants when soaked in rags, or it can be used as a low-concentration fungicide. 

This year we had a sunflower-growing competition among the staff (some team-building fun) who were allowed to use any feeds from the shop here. The winning sunflower had banana peels and chicken pellets in the pot, both naturally high in nutrients. Another popular plant feed is finely crushed egg shells, which are high in calcium, helping young plants to  establish (they can also be used as a sharp barrier against slugs and snails). Most gardeners know about adding natural tea bags and coffee grounds to compost but did you know you can also add hair, fur, urine (which can also be  used to deter rabbits and deer), pet and animal droppings to name a few!

When draining steamed or boiled vegetables, use the hot water as an excellent weed killer for any weeds growing near your house. The used water can also be  kept until it is cold and used to water plants,  as it will contain vitamins and minerals, ideal for promoting plant growth.

Cayenne pepper is a fantastic way to stop pests attacking young plants. Simply sprinkle a small amount at the base of the plants to give the pests a shock! I have also been told it can deter larger mammals such as deer and rabbits, which are also frightened by human hair. Apparently the best deterrent for larger mammals is  zoo poo, which comes from large cats such as leopards or lions. I have yet to get my hands on this gardener’s gold dust but feel there is definitely a business opportunity there for Fota Wildlife Park! 

Cinnamon is another spice that also gets mentioned quite a lot here at Deelish. It makes an excellent cat deterrent if you want to stop them using your garden as a litter box. Cinnamon is also an excellent anti-fungal tool to stop young seedlings ‘damping off’. Just sprinkle it on the surface of seed trays before germination. As well as a natural fungicide, it will also help prevent rust and acts as a natural growth stimulant. Another gardener I know swears by placing fish heads under freshly-planted trees and shrubs. I know these are high in phosphorous that will naturally decompose over time but I would also worry about dogs or foxes getting the  scent – you might just find your freshly-planted rose dug up in the morning! This can also happen if using fish blood and bonemeal, or in some cases, chicken manure.

The best piece of advice I can offer to help trees or shrubs not flowering well, is to add potash, aka wood ash, to the surface of the soil, a few months before flower buds begin to form – it should encourage masses of extra flowers during the flowering season. This in turn can greatly increase production on fruit trees and bushes. If you have yellowing leaves on acid-loving plants such as Rhododendrons  and Camellias, then chances are they are lacking in iron; a great slow-release free remedy is to leave any old iron that is already rusty (such as old nails or a horseshoe) at the base of the affected plant.

The list ‘grows’ on and I learn more with each season of gardening! So the next time  you find  yourself here at Deelish Garden Centre, please share any of your tips and tricks with us, as we  love to grow our gardening knowledge to share with our  customers. We are looking forward to our annual Christmas craft fair this year on Sunday, December 7 and hope to see you there. 

Not for the first time in recent years, the price of renting in Ireland is in the news. Early in June, the government announced that it intends to extend Ireland’s existing Rent Pressure Zones (RPZs) nationwide, amid calls to do something about the ongoing housing crisis. With this in mind, this month I am addressing a question that many renters consider at one point or another: would it be cheaper, in the long run, to get a mortgage and buy?  

I want to argue that while purchasing a house is an upfront pain, one which can cause hardship for a few years, both before and after receiving a mortgage, renting is a rumbling, much longer-term pain. A typical example is outlined in the graph below, where the ‘blue’ line signifies rent paid, and the ‘green’ line represents the total cost of owning a home instead. As you can see, in the long run renting is much more costly: over a lifetime, the typical Irish renter at the centre of this example will pay approximately €900,000 in rent and still own nothing at the end!

Over a 30-year period, then, the implications of this crucial decision – rent or buy? –can significantly affect your overall wealth, financial flexibility, and lifestyle.

Of course, renting is not entirely without benefits. It can offer flexibility, lower upfront costs (i.e. no large deposit, stamp duty, or legal fees required), and the freedom to relocate easily for employment opportunities and family or lifestyle reasons. However, rental payments are subject to inflationary pressures and, as already noted, they do not build equity, meaning that a typical €900,000 spent on rent is a sunk cost – a big one! – with no return on investment.

Homeownership, meanwhile, involves higher upfront costs – mortgage deposit, legal fees, maintenance and taxes, to name the main ones – but unlike renting, it provides the opportunity to build equity and value. Over time, the cost of owning a home remains relatively stable compared to renting, and generally the home appreciates in value, as visualised by the ‘yellow’ line on the graph below. Over the course of 30 years, the home in this typical scenario has risen in value from just under €400,000 to around €630,000. Additionally, total out-of-pocket costs for homeowners over the same period hover just under €760,000, but unlike rent, this expenditure builds value. At the end of the mortgage term, the homeowner possesses a valuable asset that can be sold or inherited.

A person should also consider that, for the most part, mortgage terms end at age 68 (though they can go up to age 70 if a person is paying into a pension scheme through their employment). So, the monthly payments will cease as the person is retiring, meaning that somebody who lives into their nineties could have 20 years where they don’t have to pay for housing. Obviously, this same benefit is not available to renters, who will in many cases continue to pay for housing up until their day of death. Upon which, unlike homeowners, they will leave no property in their estate as an asset for their loved ones.  

Choosing between renting and buying depends not only on financial readiness but also on lifestyle preferences, career stability, and long-term goals.

Over a typical adult’s lifetime in Ireland, buying a home generally leads to greater long-term financial benefit through property value growth and equity building – despite higher initial and ongoing maintenance costs. Renting, on the other hand, provides greater flexibility and lower entry barriers, but it comes at a higher cumulative cost and offers no tangible asset at the end.

With the government push to become more climate aware, and the wider push for more sustainable products and lifestyles, the mortgage market has taken up the mantle and started to introduce rates, which reward those whose homes have better energy ratings.

Residential energy use accounts for a significant portion of the country’s carbon emissions, so improving the energy performance of homes is a crucial step towards achieving Ireland’s climate targets. By incentivising higher BER ratings, Irish banks aim to help shift the market towards greener building standards.

For customers/mortgage holders, the benefits of a green mortgage extend beyond immediate financial savings on interest rates. Energy-efficient homes are more comfortable to live in, thanks to better insulation, modern heating systems, and often integrated renewable energy sources like solar panels. These features contribute to a healthier indoor environment, while reducing dependency on fossil fuels.

The expansion of the green mortgage’s availability is expected to have a ripple effect throughout the Irish market, spurring further interest in sustainable housing. As more homeowners become aware of the financial and environmental advantages, demand for energy-efficient properties is likely to grow. This, in turn, could drive improvements in construction practices and retrofitting efforts, creating a positive feedback loop of sustainability.

For the most part, the cheapest mortgage rates available to the mortgage market are for more energy efficient houses. To qualify for a green rate, a house must hold a BER rating above B3.

Last year, Bank of Ireland (BOI) changed the mortgage market by deviating from the normal loan to value lending structure. Loan to Value (LTV) is the percentage of difference between the value of the house and the value of the mortgage. Many lenders still use this practice, but BOI now works off the energy rating of the purchase property and they will reduce your interest rate by 0.05 per cent each BER value you move up.

Bank of Ireland are currently offering the cheapest green rates. However, as with most banks, the headline product, which is advertised, is normally the cheapest rate they offer, and even these come with specific terms and conditions. In this case, BOI’s cheapest rate is available only for those who are borrowing over 250K, with no cashback, a monetary incentive for taking out a mortgage. PTSB, meanwhile, offers a good mix of competitive rates with cashback, and their rates don’t punish those who have older houses, which are not as energy efficient. The AIB Group, however, are currently completely out of step with these market trends. The difference between qualifying for the AIB green rate and non-green rate can mean anything up 200 euros a month difference in a customer’s mortgage repayment.

To demonstrate the difference, take a typical 35-year term, €200,000 mortgage on a three-year fixed rate. A green rate of 3.1 per cent  (50-80 per cent LTV) would cost the mortgage holder €780 per month, but if the house is BER rated C or below, the same mortgage at 4.8 per cent (50-80 per cent LTV) would cost €984 per month, a substantial difference of €204. This is how non-green rates really punish those buying/living in older houses. 

It is important to note that only the ‘pillar’ banks – AIB, PTSB, and BOI – do green rates. This means that if your house is below a B3 BER rating, then the best rates available are actually offered by the non ‘traditional’ banks, such as Avant, Moco, ICS, or Núa Money. However, all these lenders are only available to potential mortgage applicants through a broker such as my company, Moneytree Finance, which has agencies with all of the above.

If an existing mortgage holder wants to upgrade their home to make it more energy efficient, in order to be able to qualify for better mortgage rates, the banks will require a BER certificate as proof. Thankfully, there are ways of getting finance in order to upgrade your home. One is to switch your mortgage and release equity for home improvements at the same time. At Moneytree Finance, we always advise people to re-look at their mortgage rate every three to five years, in order to ensure they are paying the cheapest rate available to them at the time. While switching, a homeowner could use that opportunity to do an equity release on their home and use the money to upgrade it. Depending on the amount of money required, banks will require proof that the equity released will be spent on home improvements, either through quotes or engineers reports. If your home is currently a low energy rating and you are borrowing to do extensive works, a bank may give you the green rate from the beginning on condition that an engineer confirms the works will bring the home up to or above B3 standard. Borrowing the money over a longer period time will also make it more affordable on a monthly basis.

Another way of raising finance is through a personal loan. The standard green home improvement loans can be up to vary from 6.4 to 8.2 per cent, however, and are normally repaid over the shorter period of five years, which obviously costs more on a monthly basis.

Finally, there is also the option of applying for a SBCI Home Energy Upgrade loan. The SCBI is short for Strategic Banking Corporation of Ireland, and the idea is to make energy efficient upgrades more affordable and accessible for homeowners. The rates are a lot cheaper than the banks’ own green home improvement loans, coming in at between 3.0 per cent and 3.9 per cent. However, to qualify for one of these loans, the works must be undertaken by an SEAI registered business, which has to provide an energy summary report at the application phase.

The expansion of the green mortgage is a win-win scenario for homeowners and the environment alike. Borrowers can secure a lower interest rate while reducing their energy bills, and the broader push towards energy efficiency supports Ireland’s transition to a more sustainable future.

If you would like to know more about green mortgage rates or how to finance home improvements, just give Moneytree Finance a call on 028 33 775.

In my own garden the bulbs have been a great source of joy, the crocuses were first, then the snowdrops and the Daffodils. I planted Cyclamen coum in the garden a couple of years ago under some trees and they do not disappoint, beautiful pinky purple, windmill-like flowers stand out over gorgeous foliage. They can flower from January to late April and are generally sold in small 9cm pots. Do try to remember where you planted them, as unlike most perennials, they are dormant over Summer and will have retreated under the ground, storing their energy for the next season. 

Another great surprise to me in the garden last year was Pulmonaria. I had never planted one before and was curious to see how it would do. Well it did so well;  I have already planted a few more under the same tree. The variety Raspberry Splash is especially long-flowering and very attractive to pollinators. 

In the garden centre, March is one of our busiest months of the year, we quite often call it ‘March Madness’. The bare root season is still going full tilt, but the finish line is in sight and everyone who has left their planting of bare root fruit, hedges, trees and ornamentals are busy getting them in the ground. A cold spell may extend the season into April, but if it’s mild, the curtain will come down and the bare root planting will have to wait until next November.

We have weekly deliveries of potted plants landing in, our range of perennials and wild flowers in particular starts to grow and grow. Fruit bushes and herbs are available in large numbers and our range of Magnolias and other Spring flowering shrubs and trees is at its best. By early April, the nursery will be fully stocked and literally bursting at the seams.

I am a big believer in trying to get the garden into shape in March or early April at the latest. Leave it too late at your peril, as when growth does fully burst, you can be overrun with weeds and corners that looked like they only needed a quick tidy a few weeks ago, now require a lot more work. If you can find the time to get beds weeded, last year’s perennials and deciduous grasses trimmed back, unruly shrubs brought to heel, you won’t regret it! Then you will have time for the nicest Spring job of all, selecting new plants for your garden.

If you are unsure what to buy, a member of our experienced team will be more than happy to advise, whether it be choosing the right hedging for your soil, a climber to cover an unsightly wall, a drift of grasses to add movement, perennials to add a blast of colour, or maybe even a tree to remember someone by, one of us will be on hand to help.

For those seeking some refreshments on arrival, our café ‘The Coffee Bee’ is open from Thursdays to Sundays, serving good coffee and light lunches. 

We love Spring at Future Forests and we hope to see you there.

Gardening in a greenhouse offers many advantages to hobby gardeners, including optimal control over temperature and humidity. This allows for early seed propagation and an extended growing season for a wide variety of plants. By selecting suitable crops such as tomatoes, peppers, and cucumbers — and applying effective cultivation methods — you can significantly increase your yields. Proper greenhouse plant care is essential for maintaining healthy seedlings and preventing issues with pests and diseases. Peppermint Farm Glasshouses share some of their best tips for greenhouse gardening, helping you achieve a bountiful harvest while enjoying the process.

Choosing the right plants is crucial for successful greenhouse gardening. But which crops thrive best in a greenhouse environment? The decision depends on the specific needs of each plant species, as well as the type of greenhouse you have—whether small or spacious, heated or unheated. Once these factors align, you’re ready to start growing.

Some plants are particularly well-suited for greenhouse cultivation. Popular choices include:

• Tomatoes: These sun-loving fruits require plenty of warmth and light to develop their full aroma and juiciness. A greenhouse provides the perfect conditions for vigorous growth.

• Cucumbers: Thriving in high humidity and warmth, cucumbers are ideal greenhouse candidates. 

• Peppers: Like tomatoes, peppers benefit from warm temperatures, but they take longer to mature. Growing peppers from seed gives you access to a vast variety of different types and flavours.

• Herbs: Many herbs, such as basil and parsley, thrive in the stable conditions of a greenhouse. Growing herbs alongside vegetables not only saves space but can also help deter pests. 

Most seedlings require temperatures between 18–21degrees Celsius for successful germination. In addition to maintaining the right temperature, consistent moisture is also key. Specific temperature requirements vary by plant species, so check seed packets or consult gardening experts for precise recommendations.

Many greenhouse crops thrive in high humidity, particularly during the early growth stages. To maintain humidity, consider regular misting or installing an evaporation system. However, ensure adequate airflow to prevent mould growth.

Beyond temperature and humidity control, keeping the greenhouse tidy is essential. Removing dead plant material and weeds helps maintain a healthy microclimate and promotes strong plant growth.

Regularly inspect your greenhouse plants for pests and diseases, as enclosed environments can quickly foster outbreaks of aphids or spider mites. Check both the tops and undersides of leaves each week. If pests appear, natural predators or organic treatments are the best solutions to control infestations without resorting to chemical pesticides.

The choice of what to grow in your greenhouse is entirely yours—there are endless possibilities! A greenhouse expands your gardening potential far beyond what is possible in open fields, allowing you to cultivate a wide variety of plants in a controlled environment. Even plants typically grown outdoors can benefit from an early start in a greenhouse.

To make the most of your greenhouse, it is important to choose the right crops and follow the best cultivation practices for each variety. The perfect foundation for successful greenhouse gardening? A well-designed, durable, and efficient greenhouse from Peppermint Farm Glasshouses. Explore our range of high-quality glasshouses and get ready to enjoy thriving plants, a productive growing season, and a plentiful harvest!

Peppermint Farm Glasshouses offers the perfect model for every garden size and style. We are happy to provide personal advice to help you find the ideal greenhouse for your needs.

Do you have British Queen seed potatoes? Up until a few weeks ago, we were being asked this daily, and the  answer is ‘yes’, along  with 25 other varieties. Traditionally gardeners  would  plant on St. Patrick’s day but depending on the weather, many gardeners are now planting in early April or even later. If you are  lucky enough to be able to grow in a poly tunnel or glasshouse you can grow potatoes any time of year.

Is it too late to prune roses? No, it’s not too late. As a rule of thumb, at the end of Winter they can be pruned back quite hard, to an outward-facing bud, and in doing this, it will encourage your plants to be bushy, healthy plants. If you have a climbing or rambling rose, it is best not to cut back the thick main stem unless there are multiple stems, in which case prune back up to one-third of the oldest, woody-looking stems. For shrub and  bush roses, cut back about one-third to one-half of their height and  any old woody stems back to ground level. Early spring is also an excellent time to feed an organic-based horse manure fertiliser such as a top dress with GeeUp organic mulch. Liquid feeds such as Uncle Tom’s Rose tonic can be added later in the season.

How do I get rid of moss in my lawn? After a long, wet winter with little or no mowing, gardeners often  notice that their once-perfect lawn is now starting to show signs of moss. The underlying reasons for this is usually lack of drainage, less  mowing and acidic soil. The first issue here can take lots of work in the form of installing proper drainage to the lawn but using a garden fork really helps with aeration of the soil, which can become compacted and waterlogged after  the  winter. We have mostly acidic soil here in West Cork, which moss will thrive on, along with rushes, which are another indicator of water-logging and acidic soil. An application of granular lime with added magnesium once in early Spring and once in Autumn will work wonders in reducing moss and   encouraging a ‘sweet’ rich green lawn, as  well as  making your soil less  acidic. 

By far the best product I have found for  killing  Moss in lawns, as  well as  feeding your lawn is a granular product called Mo Bacter, which is endorsed by the  RHS and actually has a bacteria in it, which digests the dead moss and feeds it back to the lawn, meaning no need to scarify after application. However if the moss and thatch (dead grass) is  really bad, I would  advise  renting  a good  scarifying  machine or a serious raking session before applying Mo Bacter.

Is it too late to plant bare root plants? The old saying goes that any month with an ‘R’ in it is fine to plant bare root. However, we don’t have many bare root trees and shrubs  in September or October, in fact we are not usually fully stocked  until late November. In my opinion planting in April is too late, as  most trees and shrubs will be in leaf by this  stage and have  little  time to establish a strong root system, which is  essential for healthy growth, especially if an extended dry spell of weather occurs in later months (I know, unlikely in West Cork!). 

If you do plant late in the season, it is  essential to keep plants watered during dry spells  to stop them drying out. So if  you want the best selection of plants and longest time for healthy roots to grow, my advice is to plant as early as possible during the bare root season up until March depending on the weather that year.

How can I get rid of weeds in my driveway or pathways? If you are not planning on growing anything on the surface where you are trying to get rid of the weeds, we find coarse salt the best option for weeds. As well as killing any weeds (even ones with  deep tap roots), the salt that builds up after a few applications will stop seedlings coming back, just like you can see along roads that are  regularly salted.  

Another great way of getting rid of weeds along your driveway is boiling water, straight from the kettle or when you are draining cooked food. We do not recommend using salt on soil, as it stops all plants growing and harms the soil microbes. We also recommend  extra strong 20 per cent Acetic Acid (White Vinegar) or our natural Pelargonic concentrate diluted with water and used as a spray on the  surface  of  most weeds as a natural weed control without the use of  harmful synthetic chemicals. 

Do I need to feed this plant? If  you look carefully at the compost most trees and shrubs come in, you are likely to see tiny round yellow or brown balls that some  people mistake for slug eggs! These are in fact a slow-release fertiliser that will help your plants thrive. If the plant is deciduous  (loses its  leaves for  the  Winter) or  perennial (usually hides below  ground for Winter), I would  advise  adding some organic nitrogen rich feed in early Spring to the surface of plants already in the  ground and at the base of the hole for plants about to be  planted. There are  also  feeds with trace  elements such as  seaweed mixed  with chicken pellets (an excellent one  we  stock is called  Fast Grow)  that help plants grow, stay healthy and produce beautiful flowers and/or extra tasty fruit and vegetables. In Winter months adding wood ash (potassium) and bone meal (nitrogen and phosphorus) will help establish strong roots and flower buds for the coming season. Of  course there are many other options when it comes to feeding your  plants such as liquid feeds, which will reach the plant much quicker than solid feeds but will not last as long. If plants are deficient in certain nutrients, such as iron, ericaceous plants may develop yellowing leaves. A helpful slow-release iron supplement for these plants is placing a handful of rusty nails at their base. But in general most plants will benefit from feeding!

At Deelish, we not only answer plenty of customer questions but also ask a few ourselves! One of the most common is about where they plan to plant. The reason is simple—it helps us select the best plant for that specific spot. This is essential to us, as we take pride in ensuring our customers’ plants have the best chance to thrive. For over 40 years, we’ve been helping gardeners choose the perfect plants for their spaces.

Surprisingly, when we ask, Does it get a lot of  light? Is it windy? Is the soil well-drained? many gardeners aren’t sure! Other helpful clues come from observing what’s already growing successfully in the garden or what neighbours are planting. We also encourage customers to take photos of the intended planting area, as these images give us a much clearer idea of the conditions and help us recommend plants that will truly flourish.

I hope some of these questions have you looking forward to another exciting season in the garden and remember, gardening doesn’t have to cost the earth!