By Noah Chase, Deelish Garden Centre

If you are reading this, then chances are that you’re a gardener, or at least have an interest in plants. I find gardening is an ever-expanding field of knowledge and, for this month’s article, I thought it would be fun to share some of the more unusual gardening tips, stories and useful advice that I have learned from experience over the last few decades working here at Deelish Garden Centre.

So many of our customers tell me that they sing or talk to their favourite plants and, believe it or not, studies indicate that plants also seem have a specific taste in music After putting in some research, I found that some genres of music promote growth, whereas others can be damaging to it. Roses in particular seem to love violin music. For most plants, playing classical or jazz music caused growth to increase, while harsher metal music induced stress. This may be because the vibrations of metal music are too intense for plants and stimulate cells a little too much. Think of it like massaging your plants with a song – they prefer a gentler touch. 

I have also seen houseplants in particular not growing well if they are placed in a busy spot with heavy footfall. Move them to a calmer space in your home and see the difference in growth.

While on the topic of house plants, many gardeners suggest adding the dregs of a teapot to an indoor watering can to introduce trace elements in a slow release fertiliser. If you like to clean the leaves of indoor plants, try using the  inside of a  banana peel next time for extra shine; this will also introduce trace elements.

Using unlikely household items on your plants is also something I am always keen to learn more about and I still get some unusual suggestions. I have written in the past about using strong vinegar and salt as weed killers (they work so well that we stock both) and while some gardeners use salt to kill slugs, I think beer traps (they really do work) are a much kinder option! Vinegar can be used to clean gardening tools, as well as acting as a deterrent to rabbits and deer from eating plants when soaked in rags, or it can be used as a low-concentration fungicide. 

This year we had a sunflower-growing competition among the staff (some team-building fun) who were allowed to use any feeds from the shop here. The winning sunflower had banana peels and chicken pellets in the pot, both naturally high in nutrients. Another popular plant feed is finely crushed egg shells, which are high in calcium, helping young plants to  establish (they can also be used as a sharp barrier against slugs and snails). Most gardeners know about adding natural tea bags and coffee grounds to compost but did you know you can also add hair, fur, urine (which can also be  used to deter rabbits and deer), pet and animal droppings to name a few!

When draining steamed or boiled vegetables, use the hot water as an excellent weed killer for any weeds growing near your house. The used water can also be  kept until it is cold and used to water plants,  as it will contain vitamins and minerals, ideal for promoting plant growth.

Cayenne pepper is a fantastic way to stop pests attacking young plants. Simply sprinkle a small amount at the base of the plants to give the pests a shock! I have also been told it can deter larger mammals such as deer and rabbits, which are also frightened by human hair. Apparently the best deterrent for larger mammals is  zoo poo, which comes from large cats such as leopards or lions. I have yet to get my hands on this gardener’s gold dust but feel there is definitely a business opportunity there for Fota Wildlife Park! 

Cinnamon is another spice that also gets mentioned quite a lot here at Deelish. It makes an excellent cat deterrent if you want to stop them using your garden as a litter box. Cinnamon is also an excellent anti-fungal tool to stop young seedlings ‘damping off’. Just sprinkle it on the surface of seed trays before germination. As well as a natural fungicide, it will also help prevent rust and acts as a natural growth stimulant. Another gardener I know swears by placing fish heads under freshly-planted trees and shrubs. I know these are high in phosphorous that will naturally decompose over time but I would also worry about dogs or foxes getting the  scent – you might just find your freshly-planted rose dug up in the morning! This can also happen if using fish blood and bonemeal, or in some cases, chicken manure.

The best piece of advice I can offer to help trees or shrubs not flowering well, is to add potash, aka wood ash, to the surface of the soil, a few months before flower buds begin to form – it should encourage masses of extra flowers during the flowering season. This in turn can greatly increase production on fruit trees and bushes. If you have yellowing leaves on acid-loving plants such as Rhododendrons  and Camellias, then chances are they are lacking in iron; a great slow-release free remedy is to leave any old iron that is already rusty (such as old nails or a horseshoe) at the base of the affected plant.

The list ‘grows’ on and I learn more with each season of gardening! So the next time  you find  yourself here at Deelish Garden Centre, please share any of your tips and tricks with us, as we  love to grow our gardening knowledge to share with our  customers. We are looking forward to our annual Christmas craft fair this year on Sunday, December 7 and hope to see you there. 

Do you have British Queen seed potatoes? Up until a few weeks ago, we were being asked this daily, and the  answer is ‘yes’, along  with 25 other varieties. Traditionally gardeners  would  plant on St. Patrick’s day but depending on the weather, many gardeners are now planting in early April or even later. If you are  lucky enough to be able to grow in a poly tunnel or glasshouse you can grow potatoes any time of year.

Is it too late to prune roses? No, it’s not too late. As a rule of thumb, at the end of Winter they can be pruned back quite hard, to an outward-facing bud, and in doing this, it will encourage your plants to be bushy, healthy plants. If you have a climbing or rambling rose, it is best not to cut back the thick main stem unless there are multiple stems, in which case prune back up to one-third of the oldest, woody-looking stems. For shrub and  bush roses, cut back about one-third to one-half of their height and  any old woody stems back to ground level. Early spring is also an excellent time to feed an organic-based horse manure fertiliser such as a top dress with GeeUp organic mulch. Liquid feeds such as Uncle Tom’s Rose tonic can be added later in the season.

How do I get rid of moss in my lawn? After a long, wet winter with little or no mowing, gardeners often  notice that their once-perfect lawn is now starting to show signs of moss. The underlying reasons for this is usually lack of drainage, less  mowing and acidic soil. The first issue here can take lots of work in the form of installing proper drainage to the lawn but using a garden fork really helps with aeration of the soil, which can become compacted and waterlogged after  the  winter. We have mostly acidic soil here in West Cork, which moss will thrive on, along with rushes, which are another indicator of water-logging and acidic soil. An application of granular lime with added magnesium once in early Spring and once in Autumn will work wonders in reducing moss and   encouraging a ‘sweet’ rich green lawn, as  well as  making your soil less  acidic. 

By far the best product I have found for  killing  Moss in lawns, as  well as  feeding your lawn is a granular product called Mo Bacter, which is endorsed by the  RHS and actually has a bacteria in it, which digests the dead moss and feeds it back to the lawn, meaning no need to scarify after application. However if the moss and thatch (dead grass) is  really bad, I would  advise  renting  a good  scarifying  machine or a serious raking session before applying Mo Bacter.

Is it too late to plant bare root plants? The old saying goes that any month with an ‘R’ in it is fine to plant bare root. However, we don’t have many bare root trees and shrubs  in September or October, in fact we are not usually fully stocked  until late November. In my opinion planting in April is too late, as  most trees and shrubs will be in leaf by this  stage and have  little  time to establish a strong root system, which is  essential for healthy growth, especially if an extended dry spell of weather occurs in later months (I know, unlikely in West Cork!). 

If you do plant late in the season, it is  essential to keep plants watered during dry spells  to stop them drying out. So if  you want the best selection of plants and longest time for healthy roots to grow, my advice is to plant as early as possible during the bare root season up until March depending on the weather that year.

How can I get rid of weeds in my driveway or pathways? If you are not planning on growing anything on the surface where you are trying to get rid of the weeds, we find coarse salt the best option for weeds. As well as killing any weeds (even ones with  deep tap roots), the salt that builds up after a few applications will stop seedlings coming back, just like you can see along roads that are  regularly salted.  

Another great way of getting rid of weeds along your driveway is boiling water, straight from the kettle or when you are draining cooked food. We do not recommend using salt on soil, as it stops all plants growing and harms the soil microbes. We also recommend  extra strong 20 per cent Acetic Acid (White Vinegar) or our natural Pelargonic concentrate diluted with water and used as a spray on the  surface  of  most weeds as a natural weed control without the use of  harmful synthetic chemicals. 

Do I need to feed this plant? If  you look carefully at the compost most trees and shrubs come in, you are likely to see tiny round yellow or brown balls that some  people mistake for slug eggs! These are in fact a slow-release fertiliser that will help your plants thrive. If the plant is deciduous  (loses its  leaves for  the  Winter) or  perennial (usually hides below  ground for Winter), I would  advise  adding some organic nitrogen rich feed in early Spring to the surface of plants already in the  ground and at the base of the hole for plants about to be  planted. There are  also  feeds with trace  elements such as  seaweed mixed  with chicken pellets (an excellent one  we  stock is called  Fast Grow)  that help plants grow, stay healthy and produce beautiful flowers and/or extra tasty fruit and vegetables. In Winter months adding wood ash (potassium) and bone meal (nitrogen and phosphorus) will help establish strong roots and flower buds for the coming season. Of  course there are many other options when it comes to feeding your  plants such as liquid feeds, which will reach the plant much quicker than solid feeds but will not last as long. If plants are deficient in certain nutrients, such as iron, ericaceous plants may develop yellowing leaves. A helpful slow-release iron supplement for these plants is placing a handful of rusty nails at their base. But in general most plants will benefit from feeding!

At Deelish, we not only answer plenty of customer questions but also ask a few ourselves! One of the most common is about where they plan to plant. The reason is simple—it helps us select the best plant for that specific spot. This is essential to us, as we take pride in ensuring our customers’ plants have the best chance to thrive. For over 40 years, we’ve been helping gardeners choose the perfect plants for their spaces.

Surprisingly, when we ask, Does it get a lot of  light? Is it windy? Is the soil well-drained? many gardeners aren’t sure! Other helpful clues come from observing what’s already growing successfully in the garden or what neighbours are planting. We also encourage customers to take photos of the intended planting area, as these images give us a much clearer idea of the conditions and help us recommend plants that will truly flourish.

I hope some of these questions have you looking forward to another exciting season in the garden and remember, gardening doesn’t have to cost the earth!

Put simply, ‘bare root’ means plants that have been grown in soil, then dug up during the dormant growing season and supplied without plastic pots. As well as saving money, you will often find a much wider selection of varieties and sizes available as bare-rooted trees and shrubs. If your land is sheltered, I recommend planting as early in the season as possible to allow roots time to establish over the winter months. Having strong roots will allow the plants to take up more water and nutrients, as well as supporting new growth in the growing season ahead. In exposed or particularly wet sites, it is best to wait until February or, at the latest, March to plant. In doing so, this will avoid most storms, which can cause plants to become loose in the soil, and water logging around the roots, which can cause root rot or soil compaction during planting. 

For many gardeners, deciding what to grow is the most difficult part of the process. Here, at Deelish Garden Centre, during the bare root season, we have thousands of bare root plants to choose from. As many of the plants are dormant and do not have any leaves to distinguish them from each other, it can be a bit overwhelming having to choose between them. To help our customers to find the right plant for the right spot, we have divided them into a few groups; Trees, hedging, conifers, fruit trees and fruit bushes. 

How do you picture the planting site in five, 10 and 50 years time? Do you plan to grow wood for burning, fruit trees and bushes for eating, a hedge for shelter and privacy or just want to provide habitat for wild life? Choosing a mix of fast growing trees to be gradually thinned over the years, with slower growing hardwoods planted between them, is a great option if you are unsure exactly what to choose but just want to start planting. Many gardeners are very keen to plant native trees and shrubs in hedgerows or mass plantings to encourage various wildlife and pollinators and the bare root season offers the best time to do this type of planting. This year we have a fantastic range of native plants, grown in Ireland, from Irish seed. Hedging plants are one of our most popular choices during the bare root season. It is the most cost-effective time to plant a hedge, as we can supply some plants for as little as 80 cent each! There are many options to choose from including edible wildlife hedges, native hedges, costal hedges, formal hedges, shady hedges and windy hedges to name just a few. We can also offer farmers and landowners Irish grown native plants and all the paperwork that qualify for government planting grants such as the ACRES or NTA schemes.  

The next step is to examine the site and soil where you plan to plant. Is it windy, and  if so, which direction does the wind usually come from? Have a look at any other trees in the area to see if they have been blown in any particular direction. Is the ground wet? Dig a few testing holes before planting, if these fill with water and do not drain away, there may be drainage issues. Is the soil deep and fertile, heavy clay or perhaps only a thin layer of good topsoil. Digging a few test holes before choosing your plants will show you a lot about your own soil conditions.

Listed below are a few of my favourite choices for various situations. Visit us at Deelish Garden Centre to hear about other options and the best choices for your own situation.

Many of our customers including some from Cape Clear Island pick the Italian alder for windy conditions. It grows quickly into an attractive upright tree suitable along driveways. Like the native common alder, it also grows well in heavy wet soil while fixing nitrogen in the soil, improving the soil quality and drainage over the years. If drainage is an issue, there are many types of willow that do not mind wet conditions and can quickly supply useful material for basket weaving or be planted to make living structures such as domes and tunnels. Hawthorn will also take windy conditions and as well as being our most popular native hedging choice, will grow into a beautiful small tree producing masses of small white flowers in late spring. Rugosa roses (pink, white and red) and blackthorn are good choices for a windy site, producing flowers and fruit. In my opinion, green beech makes one of the nicest formal hedges but is also one of my favourite hardwood trees. We also supply copper beech, which is slower growing, but in time also makes one of the nicest formal hedges. If you are worried your soil may be too wet for a Beech hedge then hornbeam makes a great alternative choice for heavy soils. 

Mountain ash (not related to common ash) has to be one of the best choices for windy sites and shallow soil. It produces large, flat heads of numerous creamy-white five-petalled flowers in May and June and these heads become the familiar clusters of red berries in autumn, which are a fantastic source of food for our wildlife. What woodland planting would be complete without some plantings of oak? There are two native oak species in Ireland, Quercus petraea or sessile oak will grow in thin acidic soil, often found in mountains and sometimes right to the edge of the sea in sheltered spots. Pedunculate oak (Quercus robur) is the less common of the two native species. These beautiful trees can become huge and live for hundreds of  years. You can tell them from sessile oak by looking at the acorns or leaves – pedunculate oak produces acorns on stalk, with very small stalks on the leaves and the sessile oak is the reverse. We also supply red oak (Quercus rubra), noted for its brilliant autumn colour, which would make an excellent addition to any garden or forest.

For flowering trees and hedging, we recommend various options including flowering currants, bird cherry, June berry, elder and wild roses to name a small selection. The bare root season is also the best time to plant some of the more common conifers, which can provide foliage and shelter in the winter when most other trees have lost their leaves. Yew and Scots pine are two of the three Irish native conifers (the third is Juniper) and well worth considering while planning any native plantings. Yew can also be used for formal evergreen hedging as well as planted as specimen trees; in fact, the oldest living tree in Ireland is believed to be a Yew. Although Sitka spruce has gotten a lot of bad press over recent years due to its overuse in forestry plantations (nearly half of all forestry in Ireland and over 300,000 hectares), it is able to grow in exposed sites with heavy acidic soils where other trees will not be able to grow and gives very fast returns of timber from the time of planting. Larch is also a wise choice for its fast return of quality timber.

Another huge group of plants available during the bare root season are fruit trees and soft fruit, of which there is a huge amount to choose from including popular  Apple varieties that grow well here in West Cork, as well as a range of heritage  Apple varieties. Plums, damsons, cherries, pears and cob nuts are all great choices if you want to grow a mixed orchard. If you have a growing area under glass or plastic, peaches and nectarines will produce reliable mouth-watering fruit! In my opinion, soft fruit such as raspberries, currants and gooseberries give amazing returns with very little investment in terms of cost and time and are a fantastic addition to any garden no matter the  size.

The list above is only a small selection of what is currently available during the bare root season here at Deelish, and we are currently getting fresh deliveries every few weeks to keep up to demand. Feel free to visit us at Deelish Garden Centre and we will help you choose the best options for your land. In the meantime, Happy New Year to al readers and gardeners and remember, gardening doesn’t have to cost the earth, especially in the bare root season.

Plan to plant in an area that gets full sun, at least six hours a day (eight to 10 hours is even better). Since all gardens require frequent watering, make sure you have a source of good quality water and a hose that will reach all corners of your garden. If well water or mains is not available, you may consider setting up a rainwater collection system. Once you have decided where you want to grow, you need  to decide if  you are going to use containers (for a small garden or patio space), raised beds (that can be  constructed  from a variety of  materials) or grow directly in the ground. 

For a healthy vegetable garden, you need to start with healthy soil. The most important component in soil is the organic matter such as manure, peat moss, or homemade compost. Compost is the best option because it contains decayed plant matter and microorganisms. These microorganisms form a symbiotic partnership with the plants you want to grow and supply your plants with the nutrients they need. If you plan to create your own compost-making area, locate it near your growing area to minimise the distance you have to move materials. If  you are unable to get freshly-made compost, we stock a fantastic product called ‘Soil Renew’, which contains  millions of these beneficial microorganisms and will kickstart the process. As bagged soil and compost is heat-treated to stop weeds growing, it also needs added soil microbes to get it started. One bagged compost we supply is called ‘Living  Green’ and currently this is my favourite for growing vegetables in. It is certified organic, produced in Co. Donegal on a worm farm and is also available in a peat-free option. It  is very gentle, with a perfect consistency for starting seeds and  has the added bonus of adding worm eggs to your soil (which are a gardeners best friend).

Once you have decided where you want to grow and the soil has been prepared, it is time to get planting. At this stage, there are two options, growing from seed or buying seedlings in multi-packs already grown. When shopping for multi-pack seedlings, I recommend choosing plants that have a healthy colour, with no yellow leaves. Avoid droopy or wilting leaves. When you’re shopping for seedlings, gently tap the plant out of the pot to make sure the roots are well-developed and white. Avoid plants that have only roots with no soil showing (as these  are  pot-bound and will never grow well for you) or plants that are too young with very few roots, as well as plants that are already budding or have flowers. The  advantage of this option is you can save weeks of time and get just the right amount of  plants for your space. The  second option is to grow from seed. The  advantages of this option are a huge amount of variety to choose from (we now  stock Sativa organic seeds from Germany  with many unusual varieties suited to our climate, as well as  lots of heirloom varieties. We also stock Thompson & Morgan non-organic tried and tested seed varieties. Generally speaking root crops such as carrots, beetroot, parsnips, swedes and radish don’t transplant well and are usually sown directly into the ground. Transplanting those crops may cause forking of their roots (especially carrots). For  most other crops, many gardeners prefer to sow in trays and modules. The seedlings or transplants are potted on or planted out four to six weeks after sowing. Most vegetables benefit from transplanting and there are many advantages of this method, especially if your garden is outside and not under cover. Having the seedlings in trays or modules on a worktop or heated bench in the polytunnel, windowsill or glasshouse means you can look after them much easier and can protect them from the weather and pests as well. If you do want  to grow from seed, listed  below are  the  stages  involved:

Sowing – Get a quality seed and cutting compost (such as  Living Green or Westlands) to start your seeds in. The  bag should  be left  somewhere warm to raise the  temperature  of  the soil, so it is warm to the touch. Adding vermiculite to the surface and peralite mixed  with the soil (to aid aeration and drainage) is also recommended if possible. Firmly fill seed trays or cell packs most of the way to the top. Evenly spread seeds  in trays or put a few in each cell and cover to a depth of twice  the  diameter of the  seed used (a small dusting  for fine seeds such as lettuce or up to 2cm for peas or  sweet corn). At this stage, I have started  using ‘seed booster’ spray from an Irish company called Better plants and find  the Humic and Fulvic acids, as well as  trace elements it contains really do get the seedlings off  to a  great  start. I am also using an electric heat mat to speed up the germination time but if you can keep the seed trays in a warm spot, this will also work, just be  careful not to let them dry out. Keep the soil moist, not damp and within two days to two weeks depending on what you are growing, you should see the seeds appearing from the soil. Seeds gown in cell packs can be grown on for up to a month and then planted into their final growing spot. If the seedlings do not get enough light at this stage, they can become ‘leggy’. These seedlings become top heavy and cannot support their own weight. To avoid this, place new seedlings in a bright spot to grow on. For seeds sown in trays, follow the two steps below. 

Pricking out – If seeds are sown in open seed trays, they are pricked out (moved) into a larger container so the seedlings have more room to develop. Usually this  happens  after one to two sets of true leaves (not the  first set of seed leaves) have  grown on the plant. If you are  having issues with ‘damping off’ (where new seedlings collapse after starting to grow), increase airflow if possible and try to sprinkle cinnamon on the  surface of the soil after sowing seeds.

Potting on – This means moving into an individual pot to get high quality plants for planting out, such as tomatoes and cucumbers. Be sure to water straight away after potting on. I would also recommend a product called Root Ultra concentrate at this stage, as it promotes strong healthy roots (speeding up the growth rate) and minimises transplant shock. Some gardeners sow a few seeds directly into larger pots to start with to reduce transplant shock and work.

Hardening off – This stage is so that plants can gradually adapt to lower temperatures and windy conditions. Obviously hardening off is unnecessary when growing in a polytunnel but if you plan to grow outside, move  plants outside for a few hours each day up to a  week before planting outside. 

Planting and feeding – When the plants are fully hardened off, they are planted out into their final position. During hot spells it is advisable to plant out in the evening or choose a dull day. As with all stages of  moving  young  plants, be  sure  to water after moving  and  consider  adding  Root Ultra  mentioned  above or a  low-strength concentrate feed, which is fast-acting but  will need  to be  added every two weeks or so. A solid  feed such as chicken pellets with added seaweed dust can also be  worked into the soil at this stage to provide  the plant with a slow-release food over the coming  months. The  quality of  the feed you choose will not only be visible in the plants’ growth (as  well as disease and drought resistance) but  also in the taste and  flavour of  the food once you finally get to taste it!

Hopefully the information provided above will help you along the way to starting out with the growing season ahead. I plan to give a few more tips for growing on your plants once they are in the ground in the next article. Feel free to call in to us here at Deelish for any help we can give you with starting your garden. For now, good luck with the growing season ahead and remember, gardening doesn’t have to cost the earth.

What a great end to an amazing summer! This year I sowed a few areas of wildflower seeds here at Deelish and even across  the road for my neighbour. The results were and still are fantastic. We have had nonstop flowers from May right through the summer. Our bees, pollinators and a huge range of insects, as well as countless people, reaped the rewards of these beautiful flowers. For the small amount of  time and money spent, this has to be one of the most rewarding methods of gardening.

I sowed seed in March but autumn is also an excellent time to sow wildflower seed, as this is the time of  year the plants would  naturally be  dropping seeds after flowering. For best results, I recommend to sow seed at 3-5 grams per square metre. However, if you have good quality soil, have put good effort into preparation so your site is clean and weed-free and you are able to provide water during germination, then you could sow seed at half this rate. The great thing about wildflower seeds is you can grow them in a huge variety of  areas. A square metre or two in a courtyard, patches under roses or in the veggie garden, down a drive, or a full-sized meadow! The site does not have to be flat. Sloped banks are good as long as you are able to get on them to prepare the  soil. If the bank is very steep, consider establishing an area on the top, where maturing wildflowers will seed down the slope. Most wildflowers are sun lovers so make sure they receive at least four to five hours sun per day, the more the better! 

Wildflowers grow well in a wide range of soils. Very poor soils can produce stunted seedling growth but an organic liquid feed will help this stunted growth. Avoid wet or soggy soils. Heavy clay or very acid soils will benefit from adding lime – up to 100 grams per square metre. Fertilising the ground is usually not recommended, as it will encourage weed growth, but I do recommend adding your own compost on poor soil, as this will improve the soil structure and fertility of the soil and is especially good for clay soils. If  you have had any digger work carried out on your  land, this  is  an ideal time to think about  establishing wildflowers. Use the newly-created bare earth to your advantage and sow seeds straight away. Even if there is only subsoil, get your digger to loosen the surface, and sow seeds in this area.

Wildflower seed must make contact with soil for them to grow. They will not grow on grass or weeds – these must be completely removed and the soil surface broken up to a fine crumb structure. Aim for a clean, weed-free site where the wildflowers will grow fast to beat and suppress any weeds.

If  there  are  weeds or grass growing where you want to sow  your seeds, there are a number of organic herbicides now available, or homemade options that I have written about in previous articles. Alternatively, you could burn off weeds with a flame gun, use salt or vinegar spray, add boiling water or overlay mown planting areas with a thick layer of damp newspaper or cardboard, or use weed fabric and then cover with mulch for use in a few months’ time. Otherwise, lightly cultivate the soil surface several times to remove weeds, allowing them to dry out on the soil surface each time and remove from site. Sprinkle with wildflower seeds and lightly rake or sprinkle with fine soil to just cover the seeds. Note: wildflower seeds should never be covered any deeper than 2-3mm, as this could stop germination. Once seed is sown, if the weather is dry, moisten the area. Keep soil moist so that seeds can germinate for approximately 10 days. Watch for slugs and snails and, if needed, use suitable organic controls. If birds are seen eating freshly sown seeds, consider sowing a  few extra  grams per square metre. Like any other seed, wildflowers require ample moisture for the first four to six weeks to germinate and establish. They can then usually survive with minimum rainfall but additional water in dry periods will encourage more flowers. Major weeds that reappear can be hoed or dug out in their early stages. If you have sown seeds in Autumn, the first flowers should start to appear in April. Flowering should begin within about eight to ten weeks from a spring or summer sowing.

Once flowering has finished and the plants look a bit untidy then the area can be trimmed or mown down. If there are not many weeds in the area then cut everything down and leave the trimmings on the ground to drop their seed for next season. At this stage, pull, hoe or dig out any weeds in the area. A light cultivation or rake over is also recommended to encourage reseeding. 

More fresh seeds may be required until the area becomes self-perpetuating. For best effect sowing up to 50 per cent of the original amount is recommended, especially if there has been a weed problem. Gently rake new seed into the clean wildflower bed. Some species may become more dominant than others due to local climates and conditions. Have fun experimenting to see what grows best for you.

Many gardeners prefer to grow native wildflowers. Sourcing Irish grown seeds  can be a bit  tricky, as  some  of  the  larger  producers encourage  the  farmers  growing  the  seed  to use  glyphosate weed killers to prepare  the  ground for growing the seed (which I personally cannot support) and  label them as pollinator-friendly! As well as being lethal to all pollinators, these chemicals destroy the delicate balance of the fragile soil web. Other ‘native’ wildflower seed suppliers are in fact importing them from other countries and labelling them as  Irish. One tried and tested method is to collect your own! The late summer and autumn are great times to collect your own seed from established wild flowers. Collect your seeds just before the plant is about to shed them. As the plant begins to brown, the seeds will be ripening, so you should place a paper bag over the top of a flower head, cut the stem and upend the whole thing.

Tie the top of the bag before putting it somewhere to dry. Hang somewhere with good ventilation. It’s also a good idea to write the name of the plant on the bag and location and the date you collected the seed. After a few weeks, check your bags and you should find seeds at the bottom of each bag. If not, you can give them a shake to help shed the seed. The seeds of many plants are best sown in autumn, as they need a cold winter in order to stimulate germination in spring. If you’re storing the seed until next spring, store in an air-tight container in a cool, dry place.

If you’re just starting out and would like to develop an existing grassland or lawn area (it’s best if it’s not too nutrient-rich) into a wildflower meadow, Yellow Rattle is a good wildflower to begin with, and the seeds are lovely and dry just now, making them perfect for collection (we also have  them for sale at Deelish). Yellow Rattle is also known as the ‘meadow maker’, so if you have part of a lawn or small field that you’d like to become more species-rich with wildflowers, try adding some Yellow Rattle seed to begin with, which will help to reduce the fertility of your grassland area. It’s an annual plant and its roots develop underground where they seek out the roots of plants growing nearby, especially grasses. Once contact is made, the Yellow Rattle draws water and nutrients from the grasses, holding back their growth by as much as 60%. In the resulting space, other wildflowers find room to grow. We also provide single plants of many individual native and ornamental wildflowers each spring. These pot grown plants can be planted directly into the wildflower area and will naturalise over the growing season. 

If you haven’t given this group of beautiful plants a go, I recommend you do. The flowers just keep coming, there is literally a buzz as bees and other pollinators enjoy the flowers just as much as you do and all for very little effort. I hope  you had  a  great season in the  garden and  remember, gardening  doesn’t have  to cost  the  earth.

As many of you will know, we at Deelish Garden Centre do not use or sell chemicals for use in the garden. We advise gardeners to use chemical-free and, if possible, organic gardening solutions to everyday challenges like pests, diseases, weed control and many other gardening issues. By practising this method of gardening, the benefits are many, such as greater resistance to pests and disease, building habitat for pollinators, wild life and soil microorganisms, as well as your own health. Once  gardeners  have  made  the  change  from using  chemical products to  organic  solutions, very few  look back.

In previous articles, I have looked in detail at various natural solutions to many of the gardening issues mentioned above. Another area that is very important to me and other gardeners, as well as farmers, is the ongoing  use of glyphosate (the main ingredient in Roundup and other herbicides) on farms, gardens and public spaces to control weeds. As this  harmful chemical is now  recognised as  a carcinogenic  substance, with hundreds of millions of euros having been awarded in law suits, it amazes me that these products are  still available for sale in shops. As well as the harmful affect on humans, this  ingredient has been linked  to the rapid decline of pollinators and other  wildlife. The  damage  to delicate soil microorganisms is huge and it can take  decades for the soil to recover, if ever. As Rebecca wrote in last month’s article for Deelish, the value of healthy soil is priceless. Indeed the future of feeding our growing population and increasing biodiversity around the world is dependent on it.  

On a positive note, I was delighted to an article by Eoin English in the Irish Examiner that stated; “Cork City Council has decided to stop using chemical-based glyphosate weed killers in its parks and on some 500km of public roads.”

After almost 50 years of using chemical herbicides, the Council will move to more expensive and time-consuming but pollinator friendly methods such as steam jet application, electric strimmer and organic herbicides. Vegetation (weeds) will be allowed to grow in certain places throughout the year.

It seems to me that it is a step in the right direction, with more action needed very soon. It is also great to see farmers being offered organic farming grants, as the use of glyphosate products is not used in this method of farming. Ultimately I think as a nation we will need to change the way we view our garden, roads and outdoor spaces. For example, not expect every inch of our gardens, roadsides and parks need to be perfectly weed-free and manicured. Consider leaving an area or section to ‘rewild’. Encourage wild flowers to grow, leave that self-seeded willow to grow into a beautiful tree even though you didn’t plant it yourself. In this approach, not only will we continue to have beautiful gardens and countryside but we will provide valuable habitat for a wide range of wildlife including our priceless pollinators, without whom our crops and flowers will fail to grow. When designing and adding new features in your garden, try to incorporate as many of these natural wild areas including ponds, woodlands and wildflower meadows.

If you do feel the need to keep some areas well maintained such as lawns, paths and driveways research natural alternatives to achieve your goal. Feel free to visit us here at Deelish Garden Centre in Skibbereen and we will be happy to guide you in the right direction with our great range of natural gardening products. Enjoy the great gardening weather we are having at the moment and remember, gardening doesn’t have to cost the earth.

When considering where to plant your fruit trees, consider the following points; The single biggest enemy of fruit production is frost. Fruit trees flower relatively early and a late frost can wipe out your crop. Cold air is heavy and slides downhill so keep your orchard out of dips, valleys, hollows and sheltered flat ground. Because it is heavy, it displaces warmer air so the warmest spots at night tend to be 100-300 feet above sea level on a slope away from the prevailing wind. Paradoxically, that warm, sunny southwest facing slope will get the prevailing wind (and gales) if it is not sheltered. Pollinating insects hate the wind. A sheltered north-east facing slope is better than a wind blasted south-western one. Remember, if you are planting in a high spot, that wind shelter is essential, and you may need to plant a windbreak to protect your trees and ensure pollination. Here in West Cork, I have seen fruit trees successfully grow in a range of positions from close to the coast (in a sheltered spot) right up to peaty mountainside fields. So if you do not have a warm sunny slope, don’t worry too much!

The soil does not need to be especially rich (although good soil helps). The number one soil requirement is that there is a combination of adequate drainage and sufficient moisture. The worst soil is heavy clay which, although rich, is under water all winter and brick hard all summer. Fruit tree roots need to breathe and, at the same time, they need access to water to help swell their fruit. Good soil texture helps moisture retention and prevents fruit splitting, which is a classic sign of an uneven water supply.

Once you have decided where to plant, it is time to decide which type of fruit tree to plant. My first advice is to grow what you enjoy eating, as there is no point in planting an orchard of apples if no one in your family likes eating them! 

Apples are the most popular choice of fruit tree and also the most reliable croppers.  The majority of apple varieties are either eating or cooking, although some are dual-purpose (used for eating or cooking), such as ‘Granny Smith’ or ‘James Grieve’. Early season apples tend to be best eaten fresh from the tree, popular varieties include ‘Discovery’ and ‘Beauty of Bath’. Mid season apples can be picked fresh from the tree and kept for up to a month in storage. Varieties such as ‘Katy’ and ‘Cox’s Orange Pippin’ are both very tasty apples. Late season apples won’t be ready until they have been stored for four to five weeks and can last for several months, lending themselves to dessert use from late winter, this group of apples are known as late fruiting and include a large number of options such as ‘Bramley’s Seedling’ (a brilliant cooking apple), ‘Braeburn’ and  ‘Gloster’. We also stock a great range of heritage apples, grown here in Co. Cork. This group of apples includes eating, cooking dual purpose and even cider apples that have been selected from varieties grown in old gardens and orchards  that were in danger of  being lost forever and have been successfully saved for future generations to enjoy. If space is limited in your garden, or you are looking for an unusual feature in your garden, we have duo (two varieties on one tree) and trio (three varieties on one tree) in apples and other fruit trees as an option to be planted in the ground or large pots. Most apples require at least one or two other suitable varieties or crab apple (which make have high levels of pectin for setting jams and jellies) to pollinate the flowers, which go on to produce fruit. We are happy to help you make the right choice for successful pollination on a visit to our Garden Centre.

Plum trees grow very well in West Cork and you will get a good harvest most years. There are many different types of plum, including sweet (‘Victoria’ and ‘Opal’ are lovely options) cooking varieties, damsons, gages, mirabelles and sloes. They have a variety of different uses, from eating freshly picked to making cakes and preserves and adding to gin.

Most are self fertile, meaning they can set fruit with only one variety, but I would recommend at least two to start with. As with all fruit trees that have a stone in the centre of the fruit, these trees are pruned in late spring or summer when the tree is in leaf.

Cherries make a wonderful tree for all sizes of garden. Many varieties are attractive trees, bearing spring blossom, colourful fruit, interesting bark and foliage that turns orange, red and yellow in autumn. Both sweet and sour (Morello) cherries are available to grow, each type of tree needing slightly different requirements. All can be grown in containers (we have these on dwarf rootstock), as freestanding trees or fan-trained against a wall. They do require careful maintenance, but enjoying freshly picked cherries makes growing them worth the effort. Grown as a tree, they can reach heights of five to seven metres high, so pick a spot in your garden with plenty of space, or choose a variety grown on dwarf rootstock, which will grow up to two metres high.

Pears are very ornamental trees, bearing attractive spring blossom and gorgeous autumn colour, and the addition of delicious home-grown pears is a bonus. Grown onto rootstocks of varying sizes, pear trees can easily be grown in smaller spaces and containers. There’s also a wonderful range of pear cultivars to grow, offering far more choice and flavour than you can find in a supermarket. Most gardeners find to get a good harvest, we need a hot summer and as we all know, living in West Cork this is not always the case! However when you do get a good harvest, biting into a juicy Pear you have grown yourself is hard to beat!

We also stock Asian pear trees. The fruit is like a cross between an apple and a pear, its white flesh crisper and crunchier with a hint of strawberry-like flavour. The trees are vigorous and have attractive foliage, good autumn colour, as well as dark bark (similar to walnut) that make them an excellent ornamental tree in their own right. These trees need another variety for fruit pollination and we stock ‘Hosui’ and ‘Niitaka’ at the moment.

If you have space in your polytunnel conservatory or glasshouse for a fruit tree, there are some of the most rewarding options available; these include self-fertile varieties of Peach, Nectarine and Almonds. As these trees flower early in the season when not many pollinating insects are active, they may need some help to produce a large crop of fruit. This is a fun job that involves using a paint brush or similar tool to gently brush each flower, which in turn greatly increases the number of fruits that successfully set on the tree. I have talked to some gardeners that have grown this group of fruit trees outside in a sheltered spot or south facing wall with some success in producing a good crop of fruit.

Other more unusual fruit trees we stock include fig trees, which work very well in a sunny well-drained position such as a warm wall or rock face. For maximum fruit, many gardeners recommend restricting the area for roots to grow, by planting in a sunken pot or placing blocks around the base of the tree. The most popular variety is ‘Brown turkey’ but we also stock other varieties that fruit well. Mulberry trees are easy to grow, as long as you have the space. They tend to have a wide habit so need enough room to spread out. They also need to be somewhere warm, so are perhaps best for gardeners in the milder parts of the county. Mulberry fruit is unusual to see for sale in shops, as it is best eaten fresh from the tree during their short, but glorious season, but definitely don’t wear any white clothes while picking the fruit, as their ability to stain clothes is unsurpassed. Another very popular fruit tree which we planted on the Deelish roundabout in Skibbereen is the Olive tree. I have been surprised to see plenty of fruits form during a good summer. I have to say the taste straight from the tree was not good and have learned that you need to cover the fruit in brine, leave to ferment for a few weeks and then add seasoning and seal the container for a few more months. If all that seems like too much trouble you could press the fruit to make your own olive oil! Medlars are quite easy to grow and don’t have any soil preferences. They usually start to crop after two to three years and won’t get too big – three to four metres is usual, when fully mature. The fruits of a Medlar aren’t to be eaten straight from the tree. In fact they really only suit jelly making. Quinces are easy to grow and, whilst they can be pruned and trained like a pear tree (to which they are related), they don’t have to be pruned at all. The fruit is used for making Quince jelly, which is a famed accompaniment to cold meats. They are also added to stewed apples or pears, or apple pie. Quince can tolerate wetter soils than many other fruit trees, and can be grown near the bottom of a slope.

So, as you can see there are many options to choose from when picking what fruit tree to grow in your own garden. Call in to us at Deelish Garden Centre and we will be happy to show you what is still available this season. Remember, gardening doesn’t have to cost the earth.

Long before Christians started to celebrate Christmas, many cultures around the world celebrated this very special time of year we know as Solstice. Here in Ireland our ancient relatives built Newgrange over 5000 years ago to mark and honour this magical time of year when the daylight is at its shortest. Ancient Egyptians celebrated by decorating their temples and homes with evergreen trees and wreaths. The plants represented everlasting life, peace, and opulence, which was important because winter was a time when their sun god, Ra, was ill and weak. After the solstice, Ra would slowly start glowing brighter and stronger, and an evergreen’s immortality symbolised the triumph of life over death.

The Egyptians weren’t the only ones bringing the plant indoors. In Scandinavia, the Vikings believed evergreens were special gifts from Balder, their god of light and peace. Celtic Druids started bringing evergreens into the home around the eighth century. Before then, the Druids worshipped oak trees as their idol. But English Benedictine monk St. Boniface, a man who devoted his life to converting pagans, offered the Druids a triangular-shaped balsam fir tree as a symbol of the Trinity, and it went on to replace their beloved oaks. They then used evergreens to adorn their temples as a celebration of life without death, hanging mistletoe sprigs over their doorways and windows to ward off evil spirits of diseases.

Around the 16th century German Christians built pyramids of wood and adorned them with evergreens and candles outside to celebrate Jesus’ birth. German theologian and priest Martin Luther, in awe of the magical, sparkling trees shining bright outside, decided to recapture the beautiful scene for his family by bringing the tree inside and covering it with wire and candles.

In 1846, Queen Victoria, was sketched with her children and husband, Prince Albert, alongside a Christmas tree in Windsor Castle. Because Queen Victoria was so popular, the sketch instantly became an iconic one and went mainstream worldwide. By the early 20th century, Americans had large floor-to-ceiling trees and decorated them with homemade items like popcorn strings, marzipan cookies, nuts, apples, and candles. The introduction of electricity brought about string lights instead of candles, as Thomas Edison also created the first strand of electric lights in 1880. By 1903, General Electric offered pre-assembled kits for everyday customers to buy.

Fast-forward to 2021 and the United Nations climate change COP26 conference has just finished in Glasgow. It is obvious to all that many changes are needed on so many levels around the world. Over 600,000 healthy trees will be cut down in Ireland this year to celebrate Christmas. As a nation, we are becoming more aware of the importance of trees and their role in a healthy ecosystem. This huge waste of land, trees and resources just to decorate a tree for a couple of weeks, seems very strange to me, as there is a natural alternative, if like most people, you want to have a Christmas tree to celebrate Christmas. The alternative is a living Christmas tree!

Even if you do not have anywhere to plant it out after the big day, we have successfully grown living Christmas trees in pots for four to five seasons, as long as they do not dry out in summer and have some liquid feed each year. I also recommend sinking the pot half way into the ground, if you have the space as the roots will quickly anchor into the ground and find water and food. Simply dig under the pot in early December each season cut the roots and clean the pot. You may have to increase the size of pot every few seasons but this cost is small compared to the savings of getting a few seasons from a single tree, which has grown and shared each Christmas with you and your family!

When the tree has outgrown your room space, it can get a few more years as an outside Christmas tree if placed in the right spot. If you do not have the space in your own garden, or do not have a garden, ask a friend or neighbour who does, and enjoy their smile as you give them a free tree! Most varieties of Christmas trees will grow on to become beautiful additions to any garden. They will provide year-round shelter for other plants and wildlife, absorb carbon and release oxygen. If they become too big for your garden or you need more room for future generations of Christmas trees, they make fantastic firewood to keep you warm over the winter!

After selling living Christmas trees for over 35 years here at Deelish, we have found smaller trees usually have a better chance of transplanting after the holidays. You also get more years to reuse it after your first Christmas. Thankfully there has been a change over the last few years and many homes and commercial growers are now making the switch to living trees. However, be aware of some sellers supplying ‘living Christmas trees’, as many of these have simply been dug up from a tree farm with no understanding that the roots need to be undercut each year, and will have little or no chance of transplanting after Christmas. 

Here at Deelish Garden Centre, we have never sold cut trees and never plan to; as we feel dead trees are bad for the business we are in, as well as the environment. This year we are sourcing our trees from a specialist Christmas tree grower and have potted trees, which are trees that have had their roots undercut each year by the grower, then dug from the ground and potted up. 

Feel free to come and have a look at the full selection of Christmas trees at the garden centre, and we will be happy to help you select the perfect tree for your situation.

On a side note we will be open all Sundays (11am-5pm) in December leading up to Christmas. Two of these Sundays we will be hosting our first ever Christmas Craft Fair with 40 local artisan craft stalls, food and coffee trailers and a few surprises for all our visitors on the December 5 and 12. 

Wishing a very Happy Christmas to all our customers and West Cork People readers, from all of us here, at Deelish Garden Centre. Here’s to a brighter and greener 2022!

You may hear ‘green manures’ and think green poo! Green manures are actually plants which are grown to benefit the soil and are an organic way to: 1) improve the soil fertility, including adding valuable nitrogen; 2) improve the soil structure, giving better drainage or water retention; 3) suppress weeds; 4) avoid soil erosion; and 5) attract beneficial insects and other predators.

If you find yourself with a bare patch of ground after harvesting or clearing in your garden and are unsure what to plant, then this group of plants may be perfect for you! These plants are quick growing, so the process is simple. You sow, they grow – and then you dig them in. In just a few weeks green manures can benefit the soil. Here at Deelish Garden Centre, we love to encourage the use of this fantastic group of plants.

In the vegetable garden

• Use green manures as a ‘catch crop’. Wherever you have a bare patch of ground, after you have lifted crops such as potatoes, sow a green manure. Phacelia and mustard are quick to germinate, and can be dug in within six weeks of sowing.

• Grazing Rye or Winter Vetch can be sown in the autumn and will keep the soil covered over winter, and thus suppressing the weeds. When the weather warms up, you can dig it in and it will provide nutrients ready for your hungry summer veg such as courgettes or spinach.

• A low growing green manure, such as Trefoil, will keep the ground covered between rows of a tall crop, such as sweet corn. This green manure reduces weeds and retains water.

• Grow green manure for its flowers! Crimson Clover and Phacelia are gorgeous when in flower. Bees and other pollinators love their nectar rich flowers. From spring through to summer, sow small patches here and there to fill in gaps both in the veg and the flower beds.

In the fruit garden

• Vetch grown over winter under greedy fruit bushes will fix nitrogen on their root nodules, ready for release during the growing season. Hoe off in spring, leaving the foliage to decompose on the soil surface.

• You could also grow a long-term green manure, such as White Clover, around the base of fruit trees. You’ll keep weeds at bay and provide a good wildlife habitat for pest-eating predators as well as nectar for our precious bees.

There are many benefits of using green manure crops:

Soil fertility – with their deep root systems, green manures gather nutrients from the depths that ordinary vegetables rarely reach. Plants from the legume family, such as clover and vetch, also absorb nitrogen from the air and fix it in nodules on their roots. Once the green manure plant is mature, by digging it back into the soil all the nutrients are returned as the plant decomposes. This process also feeds the millions of small microcosms in the soil, stimulating them into creating a healthy rich growing medium.

Improved soil structure – Whether your soil is heavy and clay-like, or light and sandy, green manures can help rectify any problems. The extensive, and sometimes deeply penetrating, root system of green manures will open up heavy soils, allowing better drainage. In light soils, these roots remain closely bound to the soil particles and act as a sponge. They hold onto moisture and nutrients, and prevent them from being washed out by a heavy rain.

Weed suppression – Nature takes advantage of bare soil. Weeds will quickly populate any area not in cultivation. A cover of quick growing green manures such as Mustard will smother young weed seedlings, and save you hoeing to keep the soil weed-free. Clover provides an excellent long term cover crop. When sown, you will find a first flush of weeds competing with the Clover. Cut them all back and the Clover will thrive on a second growth, outgrowing the weeds, and building up valuable nitrogen in the soil, ready for when you dig it in.

Prevent Soil erosion – Bare soil and the nutrients contained in it can quickly start to wash away in our wet winters. By growing a winter green manure such as Grazing Rye, you will keep your soil structure and all the valuable nutrients contained in it. Artificial weed membranes can also be used to stop soil erosion but will not benefit soil microbes which will continue to multiply if using a green manure.

Pest control – Sow a small patch of Crimson Clover (one of my favourites) or Phacelia, as their vibrant flowers attract bees and hoverflies, which are invaluable at eating aphids. Research has also shown that some flying pests can be confused if the outlines of their food plant are disguised. For example, under-planting brassica plants with Trefoil or Vetch disguises the outline of the crop and seems to confuse and deter cabbage root fly. Slug predators such as frogs and beetles enjoy the cool, damp ground under a green manure cover crop.

When do I dig them in?

• You need to dig in the manures three or four weeks before you want to use the ground again, or when the plants are approaching maturity – whichever comes sooner. The young green growth will quickly decompose and feed the soil. You don’t want them to get too woody, and you don’t want them to set seed. Mustard, for example, goes over very rapidly once it starts to flower, so it is best dug in when, or before, the first flower buds show.

• Grazing rye, a grass, forms flower buds in the heart of the plant. Once you can feel a flower bud, it is time to dig the plants in. It is important to do this at least three weeks before you want to sow your new veg crop, as the Rye will temporarily release substances in the soil which inhibit seed germination. This is good for keeping out weed seedlings, but you need to wait a month to sow seeds. Planting out young plants, however, is fine.

How do I dig them in?

• To dig them in, simply turn the plants back into the soil, using a sharp spade. Chop up tough clumps as you go. Aim to bury the plants no more than 15cm deep on heavy soils, 18cm on light ground. Mustard and Buckwheat can simply be hoed off or strimmed for larger areas when young, leaving the foliage in place, or added to the compost heap.

• If you don’t want to dig them in, you can let tender plants get caught by the first winter frosts and leave the frosted foliage in place to protect the soil. Or you can cover the plants with light-excluding mulch, such as a landscape fabric like Hypex, black plastic, or large sheets of cardboard held down by straw, logs, bricks and so on.

We stock a large range of green manure seeds here at Deelish Garden Centre so feel free to stop in and we will be happy to advise you on the best options for your gardening situation. In the meantime happy gardening and remember gardening doesn’t have to cost the earth.

With so many products available for feeding your plants, it can be a bit daunting. Noah looks at the different options and which best might suit you and your plants needs.

Most plants create meals for themselves in the form of sugar. This process is called photosynthesis (‘photo’ meaning light and ‘synthesis’ meaning to make) in other words making food with light. When you provide fertiliser, you are adding tiny essential elements to the soil surrounding the roots, which are needed by plants but can’t be produced by them.

Fertilising a plant should be secondary to getting the very basics right first. For example before you even think about adding extra things to the soil you need to get the watering right and the plant needs sufficient light for its needs in order to produce an optimum level of photosynthesis. If your plant isn’t creating its own food to start with, then your plants won’t grow correctly no matter how much fertiliser you feed it.

Shop bought fertilisers contain an N-P-K formula consisting of N for nitrogen, P for phosphorous and K for potash. A good fertiliser will also contain trace elements, essential for plant growth.

Nitrogen (N) produces green leafy growth and foliage. Phosphorus (P) helps root and shoot growth. Potassium (K) is for flower, fruit and general hardiness.

The ratio of N-P-K varies and is recorded numerically by numbers relating to the weight of the added ingredients. The order of nitrogen, phosphorous and potassium (N-P-K) is always the same and the numbers can be on the front, side or back of a packet. Nitrogen, Phosphorus and Potassium are known as the three macro nutrients and are found in almost all packaged fertilisers, as they are needed in relatively large amounts.

Different fertilisers contain different ratios of the three major ingredients recorded as a series of a numbers. Five-10-Five is twice as rich in phosphorous as it in nitrogen and potassium, seven-seven-seven is an equal mixture of nitrogen, phosphorous and potassium, and four-seven-six refers to four of nitrogen, seven of phosphorous and six of potassium (or potash).

A balanced slow-release fertiliser will often have equal amounts of each and this mixture will feed a plant for several months without producing a noticeable surge of growth.

The following trace elements are also needed in lesser amounts and will help grow a strong healthy plant: Sulphur, calcium, magnesium, boron, cobalt, copper, iron, manganese, molybdenum and zinc.

Choosing your fertilisers liquid or solid?

Liquid feeds tend to be faster acting than solid feeds but need to be used more often, typically every 10 -14 days as the plants are flowering or fruiting.

Liquid feeds can be fed as a drench applied to the soil or as a spray on the leaves. Whichever way you choose to apply your feed, avoid adding more than the recommended dose, as this will do more harm than good. 

If your soil is dry it is a good idea to use plain water before feeding, as plants will take up nutrients easily in a moist soil and root tips are unlikely to burn. If feeding food crops use an organic option such as Neudorff plant feed or any of Fruit Hill Farm’s excellent range of plant feeds.

I have found all acid-loving plants such as Azaleas, Camellias, Rhododendrons and Heathers respond really well to liquid-sequestered iron with added seaweed. Once added, it will prevent yellowing leaves and increase flower colouring. We try to add it every month through the growing season.

Other liquid feeds include Humisol from Fruit Hill Farm, which is created from earthworm castings and helps plants photosynthesise and improve overall plant health.

We also stock Fulvic bio, which is a natural soil conditioner that will restore and improve soil structure and increase the plant’s ability to take up nutrients from the soil.

Solid feeds are slower acting (slow release) and last longer than liquid feeds but can feed the plants for up to three months.

Many gardeners prefer to use solid feeds such as pellets and granules, as they’re easy to apply and are only needed a few times during the growing season.

Our most popular form of solid feeds is chicken pellets, with or without seaweed extract (which has many more trace elements). I recommend adding a generous fistful at the base of a freshly dug hole before planting. If the plant is already planted, the pellets can be applied around the base of the plant and will be slowly fed to the plants over the coming months.  

Other popular solid feeds include:
Osmocote: These slow release pellets can feed plants for six-12 months and are very good for containers including pots and baskets. They are for ornamental plants only and are very concentrated (a small potted plant only needs a spoonful). Often used when potting on garden centre plants, these small pellets are sometimes confused for small eggs in the compost.

Potash: This quick-acting fertiliser helps to boost flowering and the ripening of fruit, as well as adding flavour. I often advise gardeners to add wood ash (not mixed with coal) from autumn to winter around the base of fruit trees and bushes to increase flowering in the spring, in turn fruit harvests in summer!

Bonemeal: This is high in phosphorus creating stronger roots, which then can take up more nutrients. Some gardeners have issues with animals digging up plants looking for the freshly applied Bonemeal. A good alternative for root development is rock phosphate, which I would always encourage when planting out most plants, especially bare root trees and shrubs.

Volcanic rock dust: High in Silica, this will strengthen the cell walls and in turn makes plants more resilient to stresses from pests and disease, as well as enabling them to uptake other nutrients better and also help improve the flavour of edible crops. Rock dust also contains many trace elements, including magnesium, calcium and iron.

Are packaged fertilisers enough on their own to grow a healthy plant?

The short answer is no because soil structure is also highly important and artificial powdered and pelleted products will not improve the structure of your soil.

Their efficiency relies on you having good soil structure with plenty of air gaps for root development and a healthy population of soil microbes. A good population of soil microbes will greatly increase the plant’s ability to take up available nutrients. Garden compost, well-rotted manure (either dug in or used as mulch that’s pulled down by worms) is also vital for your plants. It aerates the soil and adds nutrients. 

For short lived annuals, regular liquid feeding with a feed high in Potassium (K) undoubtedly will help produce more flowers but will not help with your soil structure. 

Another vital factor is soil PH. Lime is a soil amendment made from ground limestone rock, which naturally contains calcium and magnesium. When lime is added to soil, these nutrients work to increase the soil’s pH, making soil less acidic and more alkaline. Even though lime includes calcium and magnesium, which are essential nutrients for healthy plant growth, it’s not a substitute for fertiliser. Lime’s primary role is to alter soil pH and offset soil acidity, which will improve the availability of plant nutrients. Try to add lime before or after adding fertilizers, in the spring or autumn, as they are best not added at the same time. I plan to have a detailed look at soil PH in another article.

Hopefully the information above hasn’t confused you too much! The permaculture saying of ‘feed the soil, not the plant’ always helps me when trying to figure out why a plant is not growing as well as I think it should be. Call in to Deelish Garden Centre, Skibbereen if you have any questions regarding your plant health, as we stock a full range of natural, organic and eco-friendly fertilising products. And remember gardening doesn’t have to cost the earth!

We have ideal growing conditions here in West Cork, and we are finding many of our customers are getting brilliant returns on their homegrown spuds! This season at Deelish Garden Centre, we have over 30 varieties in stock. With new regulations post Brexit, we decided to stock up before Christmas this year, with over 5 tonne of Scottish seed potatoes! Each year we try to source new varieties as well as stocking tried and tested favourites. If you are unsure just which variety to grow, listed below are the three main groups including popular varieties, growing time and blight risks of each group.

First earlies:

Plant early to mid March. 10-12 weeks to mature. Less chance of blight but smaller harvest. Popular varieties: Orla Duke of York, Sharpe’s express.

Second earlies:

Plant mid March to early April. 12-14 weeks to mature. Small chance of blight. Good selection Medium harvest. Popular varieties: British queens, Charlotte, Nicola.

Main crop:

Plant in April. 18-22  weeks to mature. More chance of blight. Large harvest Popular varieties; Golden wonders, Kerr’s pink, the Sarpo group.

Chitting

Once you have decided which varieties you want to grow, it is time to ‘chit’. Seed potatoes, particularly earlies and second earlies benefit from ‘chitting’ prior to being planted. This process encourages strong shoots to sprout over several weeks to encourage faster growth and heavier crops once they’re in the ground.

From late February to March, chit your seed potatoes by setting them out in seed trays, shallow boxes or empty egg cartons in a cool, bright, frost free position to allow them to sprout. You will notice that the immature ‘chits’ are all at one end (called the rose end). Place the rose end upwards. Sturdy ‘chits’ will form and should grow one inch in length. Be careful not to let them get any longer, as they can break when planting out slowing down the growth. Main crops don’t necessarily need to be chitted.

Planting out

Once you are happy with your chitted seed potatoes and the weather seems right, you are ready to plant! Here in West Cork, it is possible to plant seed potatoes right through the year under the protection of glasshouses and polytunnels. Outside it is possible to plant out after the last frost, (typically mid to late March). The soil should be freshly dug over and weed free. The traditional way is to dig a narrow trench 12cm (5in) deep. This can be lined with compost or even grass clippings for a better crop. As potatoes are hungry growers, I also like to add Topmix organic pellets (a mix of chicken pellets and seaweed dust with added potash) to the trench at this stage. If possible a mulch of well-rotted manure topped with seaweed and wood ash would be even better. The seed tubers are spaced 30cm (12”) apart for earlies and 37cm (15”) for main crop varieties. The rows should be 24” (60cm) apart for earlies and 75cm (30in) apart for maincrop. 

There are other ways of growing if you do not have a large garden, or any garden at all! Small crops of potatoes can be grown in large, deep containers (rubble sacks and stacked tyres also work) and this is a good way of getting an early batch of new potatoes. Line the bottom 15cm (6in) of the container with potting compost and plant the seed potato just below this. As the new stems start growing, keep adding compost until the container is full.

Aftercare

It is important to ‘earth up’ potato crops as the shoots emerge above ground, to protect them from frosts, which blacken the shoots and delay production. Simply draw some soil over the top of the shoots to cover them again.

If there is a chance of a late frost, cover the new shoots with a garden fleece or straw. Remove when the threat of frost has passed.

First earlies and second earlies in particular require plenty of water during prolonged dry weather especially when tubers are starting to form. This is also a good time to feed with an organic liquid concentrate. This will strengthen the plants against disease, improve yields, and add flavour to the  potato.

When the stems reach a height of 23cm (9”) above ground they should be earthed up again to prevent tubers near to the soil surface from turning green.

Weed out any unwanted plants along the trenches through the season (if the potatoes are growing well, there won’t be many).

Harvesting

Harvesting times will vary depending on the growing season, weather conditions at harvest time and the size of tuber you want. Start to harvest first earlies as ‘new potatoes’ when the plants begin to flower, approximately 10-12 weeks from planting. Tubers will generally become larger the longer their growing period.

Maincrop varieties are usually left for at least two weeks after the leaves and stems have withered, to allow the skins to set. Cut down the stems with secateurs to just above soil level as the leaves wither and yellow, or if they show signs of blight. After harvesting, leave the tubers on the soil surface for a few hours to dry and cure the skin. Once dry store them in paper or hessian sacks in a dark, cool but frost-free place. Avoid storing in polythene bags, as potatoes will ‘sweat’ and rot. Some main crop varieties tend to taste sweeter a few weeks or months after harvesting, as the starches change to sugar.

Common problems

Potato blight: This is the most common disease in our wet, warm summers. The initial symptoms are a rapidly spreading brown watery rot, affecting the leaves, and stems. Tubers can be affected too, and have a reddish-brown decay below the skin, firm at first but soon developing into a soft rot.

Remedy: Spray potato crops with a protective fungicide even before signs of blight become apparent. Copper sulphate is used as a preventative, not a cure. Add 50g Bluestone (copper sulphate) to 2 litres of hot water. In a separate container add 60g washing soda to three litres of hot water. After half an hour, mix the two liquids and spray directly onto the potatoes, making sure to spray under the leaves as well. Do not spray if raining, as the mixture will not stick. Use a watering can in the absence of a sprayer and ensure to clean it thoroughly after use. This five litre mixture is enough for 20 square metres.  Begin spraying this potato blight treatment from about June, particularly when periods of wet weather are forecast and spray again after a few weeks to protect any new growth. We have also had great feedback from gardeners spraying with horsetail concentrate available as a concentrate here at Deelish. It is used as a preventative before any signs of blight appear as it strengthens the plants cells and make them more resilient to blight. If plants do become infected, any leaves should be removed and destroyed. Where potato crops have already developed tubers then these can be saved by cutting away the foliage and stems. Leave the soil undisturbed for two to three weeks to kill off any lingering spores so that they don’t infect the crop when it is lifted. 

Always try and grow potatoes on new ground or rotate every year if possible. Keeping the potatoes fed with a good organic fertiliser containing plenty of trace elements will also help with preventing blight. 

For Blight resistant varieties, consider growing any of the Sarpo potato varieties, including Mira, Axona or blue Danube. I plan to grow Carolus this year as my main crop, as it also has excellent blight resistance and we love the large yields and the taste. Setanta is also another very popular blight-resistant choice.

Potato blackleg: Potato blackleg is a common bacterial disease, which causes black rotting at the stem base. Initial infections cause stunted growth and yellowing stems. If tubers form, the flesh may be grey or brown and rotten.

Remedy: Blackleg generally infects individual plants rather than entire crops and does not spread between plants or persist in the soil. Remove and destroy any infected plants, improve soil drainage and plant blackleg resistant potato varieties such as Charlotte.

Potato scab: This disease causes raised scab-like lesions on the potato surface. It does not affect the taste of the potato, and is easily removed on peeling. 

Remedy: Common Scab on potatoes is best controlled by improving poor soil conditions with the addition of organic matter and by keeping potato crops well watered throughout the growing season. Use any infected tubers first and do not store them. Home guard is well known variety for scab resistance.

Eelworm: Initially, crops display patches of poor growth and affected plants may show chlorosis and wilting, with poor top growth. These symptoms develop from the ground upwards. Heavily infested plants die prematurely and yield a poor crop of under-sized tubers. 

Remedy: There are no pesticides available to home gardeners, which will control eelworms, and so crop rotation should be used to avoid spreading the pest and to reduce infestations. Some varieties are more resistant. Nicola (one of my favourites) and Picasso have good Eelworm resistance.

Slugs

Slugs cause damage to both the foliage and to the developing potato tubers. Damage is fairly obvious as the culprits are easily identified by the silvery slime trails that are left around the plant foliage and on the soil surface.

Remedy: There are a multitude of ways to kill or remove slugs and snails including homemade remedies such as beer traps. Use eco-friendly slug pellets or you can try nematodes or copper barriers. Sarpo Mira, Golden wonders and a few others have good slug resistance.

Don’t let any of the above common problems put you off growing potatoes, as they really are a joy to grow! In my opinion, it is hard to beat the taste of a freshly dug home-grown spud, straight to the plate and served with a little Irish butter and a pinch of salt! Wishing you all the best with the growing season ahead and remember gardening doesn’t have to cost the earth! 

What does the term ‘Bare root’ mean? Put simply, it means plants that have been grown in open ground, then dug up for despatch and planting during the dormant season. They are called ‘bare-root’ plants, as they are supplied with no soil around their roots. November to March is the ideal time to plant bare-root plants. If your land is sheltered, I recommend planting as early in the season as possible to allow the roots time to establish over the winter months. Having strong roots will allow the plants to take up more water and nutrients as well as supporting new growth. In exposed or particularly wet sites, it is best to wait until February or, at the latest, March to plant. In doing so, this will avoid most storms, which can cause plants to become loose in the soil, and water logging around the roots, which can cause root rot or soil compaction during planting. As well as saving money, you will often find a much wider selection of varieties and sizes available as bare-rooted trees and shrubs.

Once you have decided on a suitable location to plant, the next step is to decide what varieties to plant. For many gardeners, this is the most difficult part of the process. Here at Deelish Garden Centre during the bare root season we have thousands of bare root plants to choose from. As many of the plants are dormant and do not have any leaves to distinguish them from each other, it can look a bit overwhelming having to choose between them. To help our customers (and staff) to find the right plant for the right spot, we have divided them into a few groups; Trees, Hedging, Conifers, Fruit trees and Fruit bushes. 

How do you picture the planting site in five, 10 and 50 years time? Do you plan to grow wood for burning, fruit trees and bushes for eating, a hedge for shelter and privacy or just want to provide habitat for wild life? Choosing a mix of fast growing trees to be gradually thinned over the years with slower growing hardwoods planted between them is a great option if you are unsure exactly what to choose but just want to start planting. Many gardeners are very keen to plant native trees and shrubs in hedgerows or mass plantings to encourage various wildlife and pollinators and the bare root season offers the best time to do this type of planting. Here at Deelish Garden Centre, I have noticed that forest gardening and permaculture plantings have become really popular over the last few seasons, and both are options that are of great interest to me personally. A garden can be beautiful as well as growing useful plants in terms of food, fuel, shelter, building materials, improving soil, and growing your own medicine! Dividing your garden into various layers from the soil to the tops of your highest trees maximises your growing area while creating a diverse environment for a huge range of creatures that will maintain a healthy balance in your garden without the need for unnecessary pesticides, herbicides and artificial nutrients.

Hedging plants are one of our most popular choices during the bare root season. It is the most cost effective time to plant a hedge, as we can supply some plants for as little as 60 cent each! There are many options to choose from including edible wildlife hedges, native hedges, costal hedges, formal hedges, shady hedges, windy hedges to name just a few. We can also offer farmers and gardeners Irish grown native plants that qualify for government planting grants. We can help with this from start to finish and supply all the paperwork needed to receive the grant.

The next step is to examine the site and ground where you plan to plant. Is it windy? If so which direction does the wind usually come from? Have a look at any other trees in the area to see if they have been blown in any particular direction. Is the ground wet? Dig a few testing holes before planting, if these fill with water and do not drain away, there may be drainage issues. Is the soil deep and fertile, heavy clay or perhaps only a thin layer of good topsoil. Digging a few test holes before choosing your plants will show you a lot about your own soil conditions.

Listed below are a few of my favourite choices for various situations. Visit us at Deelish Garden Centre to hear about other options and the best choices for your own situation.

Many of our customers from Cape Clear Island swear by the Italian Alder (Alnus Cordata) for windy conditions. It grows quickly into an attractive upright tree suitable along driveways. It can be coppiced (cut to ground level) like the native common Alder and also grows well in heavy wet soil while fixing nitrogen in the soil, improving the soil quality and drainage over the years. If drainage is an issue, there are many types of Willow that do not mind wet conditions and can quickly supply useful material for basket weaving or be planted to make living structures such as domes and tunnels. Hawthorn will also take windy conditions and, as well as being our most popular native hedging choice, will grow into a beautiful small tree producing masses of small white flowers in late spring. Rugosa roses (pink, white and red) and Blackthorn are good choices for a windy site, producing flowers and fruit.  Be aware that they will send up suckering shoots in following years after planting and need plenty of space to do this, as they can quickly overgrow other plants in a mixed hedge. In my opinion, Green Beech makes one of the nicest formal hedges but is also one of my favourite hardwood trees. We also supply Copper Beech, which is slower growing but in time also makes one of the nicest formal hedges. If you are worried your soil may be too wet for a Beech hedge then Hornbeam makes a great alternative choice for heavy soils. 

Mountain Ash (not related to common ash) has to be one of the best choices for windy sites and shallow soil. It produces large, flat heads of numerous creamy-white five-petalled flowers in May and June and these heads become the familiar clusters of red berries in autumn when on a good year, it also has amazing leaf colour. What woodland planting would be complete without some plantings of Oak?  There are two native Oak species in Ireland, Quercus petraea or Sessile Oak will grow in thin acidic soil, often found in mountains and sometimes right to the edge of the sea in sheltered spots. Pedunculate Oak (Quercus robur) is the less common of the two native Irish oak species. You can distinguish it from Sessile oak by looking at its acorns – pedunculate oak produces acorns on stalks. This type of Oak grows into the huge specimens, often found on estates and woodlands. We also supply Red Oak (Quercus rubra) and Pin Oak (Quercus palustris) both trees noted for their shape and brilliant autumn colour, which would make an excellent addition to any garden or forest. 

For flowering trees and hedging, we recommend various options including Flowering currants, Bird cherry, June berry, Tulip tree, Elder and wild Roses to name a small selection. The bare root season is also the best time to plant some of the more common conifers, which can provide foliage and shelter in the winter when most other trees have lost their leaves. Yew and Scots Pine are two of the three Irish native conifers (the third is Juniper) and well worth considering while planning any native plantings. Yew can also be used for formal evergreen hedging, as well as planted as specimen trees, in fact, the oldest living trees in Ireland are Yew.  Although Sitka spruce has gotten a lot of bad attention over recent years due to its overuse in forestry plantations (nearly half of all forestry in Ireland and over 300,000 hectares), it is able to grow in exposed sites with heavy acidic soils where other trees will not be able to grow and gives very fast returns of timber from the time of planting. Larch is also a wise choice for its fast return of quality timber.

The list above is only a small selection of what is currently available during the bare root season at Deelish, and we are currently getting fresh deliveries every few weeks to keep up to demand. Another huge group of plants available during the bare root season are fruit trees and soft fruit. I plan to write another article for this group, as there are so many options to choose from! Feel free to visit us at Deelish Garden Centre and we will help you choose that tree you should have planted 20 years ago! In the meantime, remember gardening doesn’t have to cost the earth, especially in the bare root season.